Is this the right procedure for lining up your bars, forks and front wheel?
Borrowed from Total Motorcycle Forum
"If your handlebars are not bent, but don't line up with the forks, the forks may have twisted in the triple clamps.
If you loosen the front axle retainer bolts and the upper triple clamp bolts (leave the lower tight), you can twist the forks back to alignment. I dropped my CB360t once, and that is what happened.
After loosening the bolts, stand at the front of the bike with the front wheel held between your legs. You then can twist the handlebars back and forth until the forks are back in alignment. Retighten all bolts."
Bob
steering straightening
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steering straightening
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Re: steering straightening
I've done that on a mate's bike following a trip into the kitty litter at Donnington
best done as a 2 man job or with the bike on a paddock stand
best done as a 2 man job or with the bike on a paddock stand

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Re: steering straightening
Any time I rebuild a front end I leave the TOP clamps tight, leave the axle clamp, mudguard and lower clamps loose and bounce the forks several times before tightening the lower clamps, axle clamp and mudguard last. Makes an amazing difference to the fork action - reduces "stiction"
1996 TRX 850, blue, Ohlins 46HRCLS, Race Tech Gold Valves, 0.90 springs, Venom pipes, R6 brakes............
1974 Yamaha RD250A, Candy Blue
1998 Yamaha SZR660, blue of course
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, Blue and white
1974 Yamaha RD250A, Candy Blue
1998 Yamaha SZR660, blue of course
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, Blue and white
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Re: steering straightening
what he said is the correct way ^^^^^^^^^^^^

TRX850 ,The thinking mans R1
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Re: steering straightening
I was told by race mech I know to loosen everything, Bars, yolks, spindle and mudguard. then start from the bottom and re-tighten everything (leaving the mudguard till last)
It's all good fun till the pain sets in!
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Re: steering straightening
Thats fair enough athud but you need to have something tight at the start of the forks will drop out of the yokes
- thats why I said to start with tightening the top yolk clamp only before bouncing.
Either way allows everything to realign and reduce stiction between the slider and stancion
Either way allows everything to realign and reduce stiction between the slider and stancion
1996 TRX 850, blue, Ohlins 46HRCLS, Race Tech Gold Valves, 0.90 springs, Venom pipes, R6 brakes............
1974 Yamaha RD250A, Candy Blue
1998 Yamaha SZR660, blue of course
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, Blue and white
1974 Yamaha RD250A, Candy Blue
1998 Yamaha SZR660, blue of course
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, Blue and white