Yamaha TRX850 Enthusiasts Forum

Can anyone tell me how far above the top yoke surface the standard TRX Clip ons are?

SDN wrote:Can anyone tell me how far above the top yoke surface the standard TRX Clip ons are?

They bolt onto the top of the yoke….so is this what you need?

Cheers for answering - but what I need to know is the width of the clipoon above the yoke - looks to be about 20mm - probably not explaining myself very well - Try again!!!

The height of the clipon where it clamps round the hhandlebar minus the recess on the top yoke - Clearer?

SDN wrote:Cheers for answering - but what I need to know is the width of the clipoon above the yoke - looks to be about 20mm - probably not explaining myself very well - Try again!!!

The height of the clipon where it clamps round the hhandlebar minus the recess on the top yoke - Clearer?

20mm

I know I put a 15mm step down in my yoke to get the length/height the same as std TRX with the 99 R1 forks.
Then 40mm raise on the clip ons to put the bars at the same height, just that they are forward of the fork and not in line with the centre as per std TRX.

Thanks Guys - must say you Aussies are always really helpful

Hi cobba,

just looked at the photo of your bike - can you please clarify your set up?

M y reasoning goes - 797mm is unloaded standard TRX fork length - My 98 R1 is 745mm

TRX has 18mm through clip on + clip on width 20mm so take 38mm off standard TRX unsprung length - R1 clipon below top yoke and fork tube level wiith yoke - right

that makes 759 on TRX from top of yoke to centre of axle, so I need a 14mm spacer between my stering stem and my bearing to make my R1 fork height equal to TRX which equates to your reasoning

However looking at your bike photo you have clipons mounted above your top yoke, so you either have avery steep rake or you are doing somthing I haven't understood or my calculations are wrong / mistaken?

Which is it as I will be machining up my bits soon!

ha just re-read what you said do you have riser clipons that are mounted below the yokes??

Cheers in advance

Yes mounted under but the rise on the bars lifts them back to std height.

Found the measurements I went from Simon.
Std Trx...
760mm from c of axle to top of clip on.
( I can't remember if I had equated the extra 12mm through the bars for the 70 series tyre??)


99 R1 fork is 745mm from c of axle to top of fork.

So the 15mm step gets me back to std height and then the raised clip ons get me back close to std height just forward around 35mm or so.

I've dropped the forks an extra 14mm and have 5mm shorter dog bones and castor angle now is 23.5* not 25* as std but I can go back to 25* by std dogbones and putting the forks level with the top of the tree.

Hope this all makes sense mate

Now I remember about the extra travel too(135mm) on the r1 forks so that's why I now have only 10mm sticking up through the top yoke..

Cheers Cobba, most helpful - as you did, I will go for the 15mm spacer to take me back to standard, I can always drop the forks through the yokes if I want more rake it's a much easier fix - hopefully with less offset on the 5PW yokes I should be back to standard - I can then mess about from that position.

I always remember stuffing the TRX fast through a roundabout when I first changed to R1 front end and being shocked at how much more effort I needed to push it round fast compared to the original setup - which to be honest had re-worked race tech forks, which were a far cry from standard.

Oh well 15 minutes time I cann start machining got a nice length of 45mm Dia Ali + welded up steering stem

So you will loose 15mm of stem through the top yoke??

Yes, I will have to weld an extension insert into the stem to make it a bit longer - wonder how much a custom stem would be?

Cheaper and easier to just get a billet top yoke stepped down.

well cheaper - it won't be as can weld / machine stem myself

It is possibly easier, but then I have to source a supplier and will it will probably cost a coupople of hundred bones minimum plus all the general hassel etc and as I am already having to mess with the stem for the interferance fit its probably just as easy to do all the work to the stem.

Not that a nice customised top yoke doesn't have a certain appeal - but then a fancy one would be dear and being an engineer I am naturally tight - though with all the extra time at work, the mrs probably thinks I am having a fling and a divorce certainly won't be cheap LOL