Rear brake pedal

foo · Post by **foo** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 11:52 pm

Hi All..

The rear brake pedal on my TRX is too high for me. It's been adjusted to go as low as it can but it's still too high. I'm guessing I would want it to go down another 10mm or so at least. Has anyone got any suggestions on what can be done?
(Is it just me /my bike? Maybe I have inflexible ankles.. )

Thanks!

Shawn

burty · Post by **burty** » Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:25 am

It's not you. It's a common complaint.

Personally I fitted a set of second hand LSL rearsets. I don't know if anyone has a solution that uses the standard equipment.

Doyle171 · Post by **Doyle171** » Fri Mar 23, 2007 10:25 am

Am afriad not, i have exactly the same problem.

Kirk · Post by **Kirk** » Sat Mar 24, 2007 6:40 am

Kind of a solution...

When I dropped the clip-ons underneath the top triple clamp, I noticed it subtly changed the whole riding position, and now my toes seem to sit up higher.
The difference is such that I went from having the same problem, to being able to move the brake lever up by 2-3 mm to get it just right!

Quan-Time · Post by **Quan-Time** » Sat Mar 24, 2007 10:38 am

gimmie 2 days, monday evening ill post possible fixes for ppl.. I can make a new lever. But ill post results / info for ppl when ive done it.

Im already part of the way thru something similar.. shhhh.. its the next quangineering project actually.. but yer, ill post pics monday evening

foo · Post by **foo** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 1:06 am

Thanks for all the replies.. It's good to know that I don't have funny ankle geometry...

A few options were floating through my mind such as getting rearsets or getting something machined up.. I'll be interested to see what Quan-time has up his sleeve!

Quan-Time · Post by **Quan-Time** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:51 am

heh.. sleeve hey... should have said pant leg..

Ok.. theres a few options.. And im actually making my own rearsets right now coz im too tight to pay for em.. besides, mine look bettera already.. should have pics on those soon.

As for the "quickest" way to mod your pedal, i basically thought you can cut it with a hack saw in a upside down V shape.. meaning very close to the pivot point, take it off, turn it upside down in a vice, and cut MOST of the way thru it with a normal 18 / 24t hacksaw blade.. The cut should end up to be ~1.5mm think, you will be working on approx 8:1 ratio.. meaning if you cut close to the pivot, 1mm gap = 8mm lowering at the end,, so a cut that ends up 1.5mm (basically the thickness of the hacksaw blade) will be 10 - 12mm lower at the pedal end.

Bend it closed, get a blob of tigweld over it, finish it with a file and a touch of elbow grease, and WHAM you cant tell the difference.. Only thing you need to do is:
1: ride to where you can get it welded.. Should cost less than nothing,, its a small tig weld.. id say $20 TOPS... so thats like.. 5pounds ?
2: show welder what you want to weld,, note that its "anodised" and will need to remove that, simple sandpaper trick
3: take it off, give it to him to cut most of the way thru, bend, and tig weld it up
4: put it back on bike, ride home
5: remove and finish cleaning it up.

Thats prolly the quickest / easiest way.. Personally ive made a movable piston mount.. So i can "slide" the piston up and down via slotted holes. Its basically... instead of 6mm holes to bolt thru, i made 6mm slots 12mm long, much room for adjustment. but that requires more machining time, as does making your own new custom lever.

Hope you understand, ill do it tomorrow and take a pic and show you how i did it.. i wont actually do MINE (keeping stock for spares) but ill make a mock up one and show you the process needed. should be simple enough

Hope this helps.

Also note: "dry fit" the lever before its fully welded,, just put a "tack" weld on there to hold it.. put it back on.. DONT ride around as its not strong.. just "feel" if its in the right spot, if not, just break the tac and adjust.. The whole opperation (once you GIVE it to him) should be less than 20mins.. hacksaw, sand off anodisation, tack weld, test fit, final weld.. minus your own times to remove / refit.