Yamaha TRX850 Enthusiasts Forum

Just bought this off the 'bay: 190179400864

The glass is 'slightly misted' - more like heavily misted !

Is it easy or difficult to prise the glass off?
I take it the light unit can be taken apart? Stick in an oven @ 150 for ten mins to heat the sealant?

Or some easier way to do this?

Thanks

O gorblimey guv'nor ... you're not wrong about 'misted'..!

I'm thinking that prising the glass off will fek it up (DAMHIK...)
I've had a look at mine and I can't see any sealant so I'd take a guess that it's flanged so there's no chance of slipping a stanley blade round it..

Have you thought about cutting around the housing? I think the black stuff is a type of resin so should take a decent glue to stick it all back together...
There's 3cm or so of flat face behind the mounting lugs and I reckon if you're handy with a hacksaw you could zip round it, lift off the back half complete with the projectors. Just have to clean out the crap, polish the lenses while you're there and glue it all back together again.. If I were doing it, I'd use a glue/sealant called "Sticks like Sh!t" which is made by Evo-Stik - it's a silicone derivative but very low modulus and sticks a lot lot better than sh!t trust me! I'd also stick a strip of appropriate 'stuff' like a band over the join just for belt and braces... a quick squirt of matt black over the whole thing and no-one would know...

Oh by the way, if it doesn't work my name's Martin

OI!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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ginger tosser....................................

now now girls

Using a hair dryer has worked for me in the past. Get it nice and warm and apply pressure and it'll slowly come apart. Don't be tempted to use a pry bar/screwdriver as it will chip the glass. Heat it again for reassembly, put the clips on and jobs right.

hee hee ... I know you don't really mean that Martin, 'cos if you did you'd have called me a bearded speccy-four-eyed ginger tosser ...


oh, and I really didn't know about the heat thing - prolly next on my 'to-do' list.

Which reminds me ... what about bulbs for these fukken lamps - I can't get proper ones from Halfords and I've read that proper ones are silly money ...

When i had that lamp the bulbs cost 15 quid each!!!

Needless to say the lamp went on ebay pretty much soon after i had recovered from the shock.
I will have a rumage around in my filing cabinet of tricks tonight for you greg as ive got a feeling ive still got a spanking new set in there somewhere.....to be continued.

Ok I admit I know naff all about these, but can you get at the glass from the bulb holders at all. If so a flexible long joint from your local do it at all for a vari speed drill with a soft pad wedged in the end and dampened with glass cleaner will do it.

Dave E

Greg wrote:hee hee ... I know you don't really mean that Martin, 'cos if you did you'd have called me a bearded speccy-four-eyed ginger tosser ...


oh, and I really didn't know about the heat thing - prolly next on my 'to-do' list.

Which reminds me ... what about bulbs for these fukken lamps - I can't get proper ones from Halfords and I've read that proper ones are silly money ...

Greg...remember what colour my hair is? (that's called irony)......

Anyhoo.............if it were me, I wouldn't try to take it apart straight away. I'd get some silica gel bags and pop them in there for a couple of days. Should remove all the moisture nicely.

If the headlamp is like the TRX one, with the clips around the edge, it "should" be possible to remove the glass but I baint never done thaaat.

What do the bulbs look like? There is normally a code on the lamp unit....H1, H4, H7 etc. is it on there? How many wires to each bulb?

Re the bulbs, if you have one you can take with you , go to a motor factors, they will have catalogues from various companies which will probably match up the Yam.

Dave E

Trouble is that I'm guessing the 'mist' will leave some crud behind... and Codge, as they're the projector units there's a big old lens between the bulb holder and the glass so there's no chance of using a mini-mop to clean it up. I'd assumed that the lens would have been silicon sealed (like my old STs headlamp) thus rendering it immune to the effects of the wife's hairdryer, but Kev looks like he's on the money!

The bulbs holders look a bit like H4s only a lot smaller - I've used a "Haitch 7" as the monkey from 'Alfords said.. but the bulb flange sits on top of the holder rather than slipping in nicely so I know they're wrong.

Billy, it'd be interesting to see what those bulbs you have look like, especially to see if a Haitch 7 could be jiggered to fit. Again I'm guessing that a standard Japanese bulb would be a feeble 45W...

H1s are small...be it they?

I experimented with H4 bulbs by cutting them down with my Dremel. Used a couple of 100w bulbs and they work really well on high beam but are shite on low. The length of the bulb doesn't harmonize with the lens too well. I believe the originals are H7's 40-55w and were $70 AU last time i looked. I'll confirm that next time i'm out in the shed.

Just found the 2 brand new bulbs in my box of tricks in the garage and all as Kev stated above.

Made by Koito, halogen 12V55/40W and i actually paid £18 for each frigging bulb.........NUTS!!!!!

These are originals but looking at it it seems like i still had to crop one of the tangs?? If this helps Greg then 1 tang is approx 8mm wide, 1 is 5mm wide and 1 is 6mm wide.

*in the style of Sean Connery*


Let me shee if I can explain ...

The Haitch 7s I have are shingle filament bulbs for shtarters...

But, the diameter of the bache is too big to shlip into the houshing...

Sho, if I were to dremel around the bulb base leaving tangsh to fit in the shlots, would the filament be in the right position...?

Billy honey, any chance of a picture of the offending itemsh?

Danke

Greg