Yamaha TRX850 Enthusiasts Forum

Before I dismantle my front wheel (failed WOF on wheel bearings) does anyone know the bearing No? Are they available from bearing specialists or do you have to get them from Yamaha

B and C Express are good for bearings... Just make a note of the number when you take them out and order on line (Metal shielded ones are best for wheels) alternatively try here:

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index. ... QgodyVRAEg

<Edit> Just realised you didn't want to take your wheel out first....

6204 RS?

6204rs means rubber seal do what honk says ,,and koyo is a good make , just make sure you DONT bash them in with the centre , and make sure you fit the spacer

steve speed wrote:6204rs means rubber seal do what honk says ,,and koyo is a good make , just make sure you DONT bash them in with the centre , and make sure you fit the spacer

I know rs means rubber seal! I was trying to remember the bearing number,hence the ? Use the old bearing to knock the new one in

ok ok ,, i will keep my gob shut

steve speed wrote:ok ok ,, i will keep my gob shut

Didn't mean it like!!!!!!!!

Thanks, will go see the local suppliers today

cost me $6.00 for a set of front bearings from yamaha.. not that expensive. Same price as a stubby of coopers over the bar

Must've odd wheels on my japanese market model, turns out the bearings are NTN 6203LLU/2AS Anyway, I've got some plus the seals

haggisbash wrote:Must've odd wheels on my japanese market model, turns out the bearings are NTN 6203LLU/2AS Anyway, I've got some plus the seals

6203 then....

It's already been said about not whacking the centre race when fitting, but still take care when drifting the outer into the hub, unless my hub's been overcut (unlikely) I found resistance turning my wheel after fitting new bearings... I'd walloped the outers fully into the hub so that they gripped the spacer tight - just tapped them out a fraction again and free turning was restored.

G

Greg wrote:It's already been said about not whacking the centre race when fitting, but still take care when drifting the outer into the hub, unless my hub's been overcut (unlikely) I found resistance turning my wheel after fitting new bearings... I'd walloped the outers fully into the hub so that they gripped the spacer tight - just tapped them out a fraction again and free turning was restored.

G

i know what your saying but if the spacer is not touching the inner race then when you tighten the front wheel nut up would this not pre load the bearings against the side of the track ?? it may not cause a problem , but ,,,just a thought !!

Yeah - I hear you, but I remember the spacer being slightly loose when I removed the bearings - if you think about it it needs to be so you can get the edge of your drift onto the bearing to remove it..!

I'd banged mine in tight, the spacer was gripped and I can only assume that by doing so I'd used whatever lateral tolerance there was in the bearing, and tightening the axle simply nipped the bearings even more ... I think it can only be a couple of tenths of a mm, not enough to make a difference to the seating of the bearing IMHO ...

I'll not tell you what I did when I refitted my output shaft seal...

I haven't done it since...

G

Done mine a few months back and they were sods to get out as they were tight up against the centre spacer tube

That and the fact i got robbed for the bearings from a local bearing supplier - ok they were PKF but nearly a tenner each ffs!
and did the rears too.

Still shouldnt need new un's for a while.