Bent fairing bracket mounting..

[trixynut]

I'm starting to rebuild the bike following my 'off' or as much as I can with a bad right hand still.

In the crash, I mangled the front fairing 'A' frame, the one that holds the headlight, fairing and clocks.

Got another one off ebay and fitted it, but it was about 10 degrees off to the left, as you sit on the bike.

I presumed I'd bought a pup, so took it off and checked it for being square and straight, and its spot on, so had a look at the mounting points on the bikes headstock, and it looks like these have been bent in the crash: they are noticable bent to the left and appear to have some of the paint cracking off where the lugs are welded to the bracket, which indicates to me the A frame has bent them....



So, what does anyone suggest to get them about right? Big hammer? Steel bar as a lever trough the holes? Heat? Give up and cry?

Cheers,

Dave.

[G Beale]

Steel bars as levers through the holes would be my 1st shot mate. Maybe a bit of heat too ?

[steve speed]

set it all up then give it some persuasion in the direction you want with a large weight on the end of a wooden shaft ,, that should do the trick,,, sorry for selling ive had a drinck

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Have you still got the old fairing frame??? bolt that back in place and can this be used as a leverage force in some respect???

[Mincehead]

I would STRONGLY recommend that you drop the forks out of their yokes but leave the stem/spindle in place to keep some rigidity through the headstock.Dropping the forks out will give you much more room to work in.
The lugs are welded directly to the headstock(butt welds)so with some gentle cold persuasion using large/long enough bars you should be able to `tweak` them back inline,of course you`ll need some good high carbon steel or the rods you use will simply bend before they achive what you`re trying to do.Forged extension bars from a socket set might be strong enough.
Alternatively you could use a blowtorch on the headstock tube to help create a soft spot around the lugs which will be much easier,but then there`s re-painting issues and re-greasing of headstock bearings too.
Try the cold persuasion first and tweak a little at a time,checking repeatedly with the framework,you don`t want to go too far the other way or create stress fractures necessitating re-welding of the lugs.
I`m sure the headstock tube will move fairly easily if you use a good strong bar,I don`t think Yamaha would have used high carbon content or chrome molybdenum tube when making their frames.

[Silver]

Could you maybe grind a bit off one side of the lugs and put a couple of washers in the other side to balance the offset? Might save the problems of maybe cracking something by trying to straighten it up.
Dave