Yamaha TRX850 Enthusiasts Forum

There is a tread with more or less the same topic, but I guess this is somewhat different.

My markings looks like this now:

TDC seems spot on:


Marks at inlet camshaft:


Marks at exhaust camshaft:


Marks at sprockets:



.
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That´s kinda more aligned than mine ever been...

I would be proud to have a set of sprockets that lined up as nice as those ones .........

I'd say you're good to go!

I did my valve clearances awhile ago, as well as installing a new cam chain and tensioner. My timing markings looked just like yours.
I think that's as good as it gets.

Thanks guys!
That's reassuring to hear.

If it blows to pieces you'll hear from my layer

hold on!!!!! that crankshaft mark is advanced which will make the the cam sprockets retarded mine was like that , its the cam chain that has stretched , it is VERY easy to get the crank in the wrong spot as it is hard to see , you have to look at it square on , just hold a straight line on the photo you will see what i mean,, its not dangerous but you are losing power

Hmmm, that's worrying. I haven't tried to start it yet.
Would the power loss be recognizable like stuttering/unresponsiveness when blipping the throttle, or do I have to wait for the 1m of snow outside to melt and do a test run?

The power loss would be minor,and (in a practical way) not even noticeable......plus, remember that the crankshaft to camshaft reduction is two to one, therefore if you reversed the crankshaft till the marks absolutely agreed (and taking into consideration the slight misalignment of your camera position,the marks are pretty close to spot on, though the cams seem to be ever so slightly retarded), the camshaft markings would show half that discrepancy........would it be so noticeable then?.... what you have shown, with your pictures, is a camshaft to camshaft, and camshaft to crankshaft relationship that is better than what I have, with my machine, with a brand new cam chain installed in a motor that shows little wear and has low miles......... certainly your chain is very slightly stretched but absolutely not worth replacing.....it is certainly way better than mine was at 43000kms. ....Whip out the screwed centre cap of the alternator cover, put a socket and bar on the flywheel retaining bolt and turn the motor over a few turns. If it turns over freely and then all the marks line up again on the cams and crank when you have finished doing this, start the buggar up...... good luck.

Smithers wrote:The power loss would be minor,and (in a practical way) not even noticeable......plus, remember that the crankshaft to camshaft reduction is two to one, therefore if you reversed the crankshaft till the marks absolutely agreed (and taking into consideration the slight misalignment of your camera position,the marks are pretty close to spot on, though the cams seem to be ever so slightly retarded), the camshaft markings would show half that discrepancy........would it be so noticeable then?.... what you have shown, with your pictures, is a camshaft to camshaft, and camshaft to crankshaft relationship that is better than what I have, with my machine, with a brand new cam chain installed in a motor that shows little wear and has low miles......... certainly your chain is very slightly stretched but absolutely not worth replacing.....it is certainly way better than mine was at 43000kms. ....Whip out the screwed centre cap of the alternator cover, put a socket and bar on the flywheel retaining bolt and turn the motor over a few turns. If it turns over freely and then all the marks line up again on the cams and crank when you have finished doing this, start the buggar up...... good luck.

+1

After a couple of months with other priorities I finally hit the start button.
The bike ran as smooth as a trx possibly can.

On how much clearance your valves are set?

I went from 0 clearance to max clearance, and you could hear the valves. A few months later I changed the cam chain and readjusted the valves closer to minimum clearance, valve noise was back to normal.

lars wrote:On how much clearance your valves are set?

I went from 0 clearance to max clearance, and you could hear the valves. A few months later I changed the cam chain and readjusted the valves closer to minimum clearance, valve noise was back to normal.

Well, the valves I adjusted was the two exhaust valves at the right cylinder. I used a 0.25 and a 0.30 blade gauge.
The 25 goes in and the 30 don't, but its hard to say what the gap is more exactly than that.
Before I did the adjustment the gap was a bit over 0.30.
I thought an engine was more likely to tick when the gap was to big. My engine is undoubtly ticking more with lesser gaps

In my case it was all on the inlet side.
The exhaust valves got bigger clearance? Normal the tighten up.

And yes, more clearance is more noise!

Hey Zod, can you give more clues about the "ticking" noise....for example; now when you start the bike up, when it's cold, is the ticking noise evident or does the motor still have to get hot to bring out the ticking noise....... where does the ticking noise come from ie. cam area, lower engine, .......also, from the cam cover area there is the normal mild clatter of the valve assembly operating, but above this sound is the ticking sound more solitary, in other words, does the ticking sound seem to be above the rest of the usual noise of the valve actuation assembly ..... What is the frequency of the ticking noise ie. is it at camshaft speed (half crankshaft speed) or at crankshaft RPM........ this is interesting, some more clues may help to identify the cause..... cheers

Thx for the input!

It's hard to tell were the ticking is located, but perhaps it's most intense in the lower right side/waterpump area.
I don't have the knowledge to tell if the frequency of the ticking is at the camshaft speed, but perhaps someone can tell from the sound clip.