Yamaha TRX850 Enthusiasts Forum

Please advise on riveting chain. From earlier post, was out riding ethusiastically when chain came undone, hugger was broken and bike wouldn't start, but very little damage done.

Found the problem with bike not starting, was broken earth wire off starter safety circuit, allworking OK. However still a bit worried about why the chain parted. used DID 525 X ring chain / soft link and good quality chain riveter. I have refitted the chain, tightened the riveter right up and the rivet head now measure the same as the die cups on the riveter. Chain Pins are 5.1mm - from memory and riveted pin heads now measuring 5.75mm. Is this enough? really don't fancy a repeat experience of chain parting. Is there any thing else I need to do - coincidentally, have just written will LOL.

5.1 mm, really that seems awfully large in diameter to me?
I don`t use rivet links at all, never had any issues with spring links in all my years, if they are installed correctly they`ll not come off.
I`ve watched 250 mph+ seventies drag bikes run spring link chains with no problems whatsoever, ok I`ll admit that there`s no suspension movement involved in drag racing but as I said, personally I trust them.
Anyway I digress.............................. So, if the pin is visibly peened over and is similar in outer diameter to the other link pins that`s all you can do, too tight and the chain will have a nasty tight link.

I use sprung links too, no problems here either

Can you get spring links for X ring chains? I have allways used spring links in the past with no problems, just the difference between 5.1mm diameter and 5.75mm does not seem a whole lot - 30 odd thou/inch in old money, to keep 80 odd bhp in check!!! Any number of informed opinions would be helpfull

This is from past experience with chains so take from it what you will: the link pins dont take any stress laterally its only in the direction the chain rotates in where the stress loading is, so as long as the chain pin is riveted over or held in by an interferance fit (pin being bigger than the hole its going into) all should be well, the problems start when the pin is either tightened up too much and does not have any or only a little free movment (stiff link) or the pin is not driven fully into the chin link on one side.
stiff link will cause the chain to jump on the sprocket and the pin not in fully will cause breakage
the chain riveter tool/ chain link extractor should have two shoulders or a threaded adjustment for you to compress the chain into, one will be "tight" and the oter "loose" put the chain together using the tight one and then move to the loose one and give it a small turn maybe 1/2 revolution to set the desired amout of slack into the chain link, or use the treaded part to give some slack to the pin/link
Ive just checked youtube and there seem to be demos there.

I had a problem with a spring link chain. I happened to notice that the spring clip was missing. The chain remained in place and as it happened the link was pretty much immovable, but it sure scared me.

First and second chain I replaced on the trxie were rivet link, all the rest so far (RX 525 XSO) have come with a spring / split link, and like others have said, no problems so far. Always carry a spare split link with me in the tool box.

Bob

SDN wrote:Can you get spring links for X ring chains? I have allways used spring links in the past with no problems, just the difference between 5.1mm diameter and 5.75mm does not seem a whole lot - 30 odd thou/inch in old money, to keep 80 odd bhp in check!!! Any number of informed opinions would be helpfull

Of course, any motorcycle dealer or even Ebay will have them.

It's a bit hard to explain in words, but on my Enduro bike, I lockwire the spring link around the side plate so it can't come off. Marking with red paint gives you an easy 'pre flight' as well. On my road and track bikes, I always use a rivet link.

I've never had any problems with a spring clip...

If you're worried, drill a very small hole in the middle of the sideplate & lockwire the spring clip on.

Usually, as other have said, even if the spring retainer goes missing the sideplate won't move anyway.

Edit: as above, I guess you could do it without drilling a hole too, should be enough clearance.

Fella's, just been searching threads for chain links / joining etc...
I'm currently in a similar situation. Got a new chain with no 'split / joiner' link. Its a 525 XW. Now I've never had problems with split link chains on dirt bikes over the years, but am cautious about using one on the TRX. But how do I put this new "split-linkless" chain on without this joiner tool. Bike mechanic mate advised strongly against manually peening over the pins. So could I use the joiner link form the old chain? I'd rather not!
Scotty.

I use a Hein Gericke splitter/ rivetter and couldn't recommend it more highly. It's a bit pricey (around £95 the last time I looked), but it really is a quality piece of kit that will last a lifetime .
If you do puchase one you need the adaptor piece (extra £12,I think) to make the thing useable.

I only wish I'd bought one years ago.

I expect Mince will be along shortly to post a link ( He's smarter than me at that sort of thing )

Mark.

Oooooo smarter am I?
Actually I picked up one of these second hand at an autojumble, paid twenty quid for it:

http://www.mandp.co.uk/productinfo/5021 ... Tools/Thor

I still use split links though, never had any issues with them personally and remember folks race and drag bikes over the years have not suffered any from using them either.