Yamaha TRX850 Enthusiasts Forum

Hi All

I need to support the front of my TRX to remove front wheel and forks. Any tips please

Thanks

Mick

Before I bought a head-lift stand, I did it with a trolley jack and some bits of wood cobbled together to cradle the motor while allowing the headers to pass through. (I'm assuming you already have a rear stand) It can be rather fiddly and I don't recommend it, but can be done. The stress can be taken out of it if you can tie the frame to the roof of your garage to prevent any topples.

I'd recommend borrowing/buying a head-lift stand to use in conjunction with a rear stand as it makes the job a lot easier!

Scraps of old wood are handy to wedge under the front tyre when installing the wheel on stands by yourself to save you from trying to lift and align at the same time .

Paddock stand at the back, bottle/trolley/jack out your car and a piece of wood under the engine and away you go.

Or if you've a shed/garage with beams in the roof, paddock stand at the back and rope/ratchet straps over the beam.

Utilise two axle stands and a rod passed through the holes in the crankcases, those right at the front of the cases.
A trolley jack with a piece of wood across / spanning the pipes under the motor will take all the grunting out of it.

Mincehead wrote:Utilise two axle stands and a rod passed through the holes in the crankcases, those right at the front of the cases.
A trolley jack with a piece of wood across / spanning the pipes under the motor will take all the grunting out of it.

This one. You can use two bolts if you don't have a long enough rod to go all the way across

I've also done the trolley jack & wood trick, but it puts most of the weight on the exhaust, which is probably not great.

No it`s not a problem as long as it spans the two pipes M.V., they are plenty rigid enough and the wall of the stainless tube is thick enough not to deform. Remember there`s a mounting up into the bottom of the cases between the tube runs.
Yes, I agree, bolts through those holes in the crankcases will work too but I would be a tad concerned if the weight didn`t settle on the axle stands equally, you wouldn`t want to snap the boss off the cases or worse crack them.
Taking CARE is the secret, as in most things.

Don't know if you've done it yet, but here is the support I used:

Thanks All

Not done it yet. Too flipping cold in my garage at the moment. Pyramid fork seals arrived yesterday and 20w oil should follow shortly. Thanks for all your thoughts and suggestions.

Mick

20w??
r u sure??
i'm 65-70kgs
std springs, 10w with an air gap of 145mm is about right.
i'm even contemplating 7.5w with an air gap of 130mm(std level)
just saying is all.
cheers
fung.

Hi

Its been in there since 2004

Mick

guys,

thinking of getting this: http://www.srwmoto.com.au/tools-and-mai ... d_140.html

It says

The head-lift comes with 13, 15, 16.5, 17 and 18mm diameter head-pins. Larger diameter head-pins are available for a small additional cost.

Any idea if this will work with the trx? Honestly probably a bit enthusiastic to think I'll need the head lift for anything I'll want to do, but its cheaper to buy both a rear & head lift at once than later seperately...

Young Graham, Fungs Wrench,(thats wrench not wench,) bought a front stand to redo Fungs front forks and the bastard did not have the correct fitting to fit the hole.
I am not to sure what he did, but when I left he was trying allsort of things.
Might pay to measure the hole. to see if the fittings quoted are what you need.

fair enough, should get off my ass!

I've got Kaneg front and rear stands and they work fine and are very handy for fork removal. You need to remove the horn to use it (one 8mm bolt + 2 wires). I found that it put a little pressure on the bottom of the fairing which concerned me, but made a spacer to sit over pin (again with some spare wood).