Yamaha TRX850 Enthusiasts Forum

So it took me this long to get around to tidying things up enough on the recently bought TRX and put it back together. No points there. And I couldn't find a thread on smoking exhausts so here I am cap in hand ...

It fires up fine, adjust idle down but there's a lot of exhaust smoke once it warms up and that does not take long, maybe 20-30 seconds. I am concerned about the smoke and the rate at which it warmed up (overheating?) - checked the rad to make sure hot coolant is being pumped around - OK, pretty hot but temperature reading barely off the line at 60. More smoke on rider's left side than right, cans look like Clint Eastwood's Magnum after a spree when I kill the engine.

So, the history to help diagnose:
Bought it, rode it home 8 miles. No smoke noticed at that point but it could have been there.
Slowly took it apart: tank airbox, rad, carbs & thermostat to get in about and clean as much as possible - what a mess of hidden salt and crud!
The choke on the carbs has seized completely so dismantled and rebuilt that bit. Took off diaphragms and float bowls to have a look for damage (looked OK) and squirt through with carb cleaner. Did NOT adjust any screws.
Put in new plugs (wemoto sent 9's though I think 8's are correct)
Changed to K&N air filter from std
Changed coolant and oil & filter (why the hell did they make the filter such a PITA to get at?) - it's taken 3.7litre so far but nothing in the gauge window yet!

I can't think what this might be unless I upset the carb setting or didn't put it back properly on the rubbers. Ideas welcome but I'm running out of time before I head off for a couple of weeks ...

Colour of smoke, black or blue / white?

As mince asked, colour of smoke is important to start with (could be oil, could be fuel?)

Secondly 3.7 Ltrs isn't (quite) enough on a full oil change but should show in the sight glass as long as you've followed the correct oil check (probably the most asked question on here) Don't ever check your oil level cold, warm the engine to a normal operating temp, stop the engine, hold it upright on a level surface & check the level. Make sure you don't overfill because you're checking 'cold'

In the romantic fluorescent lighting inside a shipping container, I'd say the smoke is white.

Forgot to mention: when I did ride it home out would not accelerate nearly as well as it should.assumed this is because choke was stuck and it was flooding when giving it a handful. May not be related of course.

Until this its solved I'm way of running it long enough to come fully up to temp to check the oil level.

highlander wrote:In the romantic fluorescent lighting inside a shipping container, I'd say the smoke is white.

Forgot to mention: when I did ride it home out would not accelerate nearly as well as it should.assumed this is because choke was stuck and it was flooding when giving it a handful. May not be related of course.

Until this its solved I'm way of running it long enough to come fully up to temp to check the oil level.

White smoke is often a sign that you are burning anti freeze - could be head gasket.

But the bike is not overheating?

phuk72 wrote:

highlander wrote:In the romantic fluorescent lighting inside a shipping container, I'd say the smoke is white.

Forgot to mention: when I did ride it home out would not accelerate nearly as well as it should.assumed this is because choke was stuck and it was flooding when giving it a handful. May not be related of course.

Until this its solved I'm way of running it long enough to come fully up to temp to check the oil level.

White smoke is often a sign that you are burning anti freeze - could be head gasket.

But the bike is not overheating?

Of course, it could just be steam? Have you got the bike properly hot (as in getting the temp guage to move)? It should do if you leave the bike to idle long enough (or take it for a 10 mile run) and if the white smoke stops you have your answer

I thought and hoped it could be something like that, just needs bedding in again. I'm a little shy of running it with the smoke but if I am not likely to do damage on a wee run then that's what I'll do.that will get the oil circulating fully too

highlander wrote:I thought and hoped it could be something like that, just needs bedding in again. I'm a little shy of running it with the smoke but if I am not likely to do damage on a wee run then that's what I'll do.that will get the oil circulating fully too

even if the head gasket has gone, as long as you don't run the bike so it gets stupidly hot, you shouldn't do any damage

Good, it cleared up after running it up to temp and the oil is sitting perfectly in the middle of the window:-)

It doesn't like running with the fan on, seems to be a flickering electrical drop out

Now I have to deal with brakes which aren't pushing the pistons back out after a clean up! I have rebuilt brakes several times and this should be easy but I can't believe both front and rear master cylinders have gone. Theres no resistance as though the valve does not work. Not going to get to ride this before I head off for a couple of weeks

I'm not sure what the correct procedure is for making the brakes work, it took me ages but eventually got mine bled up after changing to bluespots, basicly it was always air in the system, so I topped the master up to the brim (rag in hand for spillages!) and pumped the lever......plenty..... then tap tap tap on the hoses and caliper then iirc pulled the lever in slow ....bubbles! there would be a couple of tiny bubbles come up through the fluid in the master cylinder.....repeat until all the beer has gone/your fingers are falling off your hand/you are terminally bored and wonder why you like bikes/D all of the above.
Never had to do anything to the back brake so cant comment....but.... might be an idea to take it off, put a hard (metal?)packer inbetween the pads (same width as disc) and let the caliper hang down so the air can get out/up easier, if its not coming through the bleed nipple
I cant think why it didnt work a normal way by just using the bleed valve, but thats how I got mine to work

Hiya

im with you on the master cylinders ........... they cant both be gone

I bleed mine backwards ......... I use a pump action oil can and pump fluid back from the bleed nipple up to the master cylinder .......... only takes a few minutes and works every time

i have some calipers and cylinders here Ill happily send you if that doesnt work

Cheers

Chris

That sounds much easier than my way Cheers zednine!

Can you post a link to a pump oil can like yours? Having trouble finding one.

I did use a mitty vac suction pump which pulled the fluid thought to bleed nipple fine. Usually that is enough but not this time.

On rear I removed line and cover banjo thread at mc with thumb. Press pedal release thumb and you get the pffft of compressed air. Good.replace thumb, release pedal and it should pull from reservoir,BUT release thumb and you feel the suction of it sucking from the line instead. Need to check for blockage in hose to reservoir today. Mc will be a bugger to pull apart an probably better replacing for twenty quid.

highlander wrote:Good, it cleared up after running it up to temp and the oil is sitting perfectly in the middle of the window:-)

Glad to hear it

highlander wrote:Can you post a link to a pump oil can like yours? Having trouble finding one.

I did use a mitty vac suction pump which pulled the fluid thought to bleed nipple fine. Usually that is enough but not this time.

On rear I removed line and cover banjo thread at mc with thumb. Press pedal release thumb and you get the pffft of compressed air. Good.replace thumb, release pedal and it should pull from reservoir,BUT release thumb and you feel the suction of it sucking from the line instead. Need to check for blockage in hose to reservoir today. Mc will be a bugger to pull apart an probably better replacing for twenty quid.

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