Yamaha TRX850 Enthusiasts Forum

I just got the bike back from its trip to another "expert tuner" (read assclown...not having much luck) and the exhaust is tinking a LOT on cooldown. I'm talking after just a 10 minute ride. That would be running hot due to a lean condition would it not?
Off to undo what he did...at least he was cheap

Sounds like you're running VERY lean - a tuner isn't cheap when they ultimately cost you money, ask for your money back if he's buggered it. Is the bike overheating or running high on the temp gauge on short hops or is it just on the exhaust exit?

Running hot I'm just happy the guy "with 40 years tuning experience" doesn't have the bike any more...he insisted the fuel screw was on the intake side and the air screw was accessed thru the float bowls
Sydney mechanics: making mechanics of riders

Dav wrote:...he insisted the fuel screw was on the intake side and the air screw was accessed thru the float bowls

Sounds correct to me, but keep in mind screws are named different on standard mik´s and FCR´s....

Fair enough KW...this is on FCRs I'd given him the bike to try and eliminate the off idle lack of power. He said he'd ring in 4 hours. I got the call 2 days later to say the bike was done. 2 days (of not answering phone calls/emails) to drop the needle one clip and fuel out half a turn and 2 new plugs (supplied by me) installed TPS was doing the dance, off idle as bad as ever, no play at the throttle, badly routed throttle cables and missing one of the rubber bungs that the tank rests on
Have restored everything to recommended settings, reset the tps, found the missing rubber bung hiding next to the swingarm pivot and installed the airbox instead of the ramair foamie and the bike is running sweetly
Back on topic...the coolant overflow reservoir was empty Topped up both ends. That combined with lean fuelling might explain the hot running

Dav wrote:Fair enough KW...this is on FCRs I'd given him the bike to try and eliminate the off idle lack of power. He said he'd ring in 4 hours. I got the call 2 days later to say the bike was done. 2 days (of not answering phone calls/emails) to drop the needle one clip and fuel out half a turn and 2 new plugs (supplied by me) installed TPS was doing the dance, off idle as bad as ever, no play at the throttle, badly routed throttle cables and missing one of the rubber bungs that the tank rests on
Have restored everything to recommended settings, reset the tps, found the missing rubber bung hiding next to the swingarm pivot and installed the airbox instead of the ramair foamie and the bike is running sweetly
Back on topic...the coolant overflow reservoir was empty Topped up both ends. That combined with lean fuelling might explain the hot running

Sounds like money back me thinks...on another note, i have hot running now as well. I´ve seen that my mech had a moment either with higher pressure from 900 waterpump or a brainfart not securing a clamp. Anyway i think my Tstat is shot and not opening when it should....therefor a very fast temp increase.
There´s a thread in here with the same problem and there where a LOT of guck in his Tstat....rust and other nasty things.

Uh-oh...still tinking. The only other thing that was changed was normal plugs for iridium plugs...the correct equivalent though...could they really burn much hotter?

I doubt it would be the plugs, what number is on the plugs? and while you have them out take a photo of the electrode and post it up

Seems a lot of time and money wasted that could have been spent towards a dyno to give you a detailed reading of whats goin on and at where and once they tinker they give you the reading again so you see what your getting in those respects. Fuel/air thro the rev range /torque and h/power also.. Might be worth it mate

if it's running lean with the airbox on, it must have been really bad with ramair filters!

Ask him what mains has he put in

The mains are the standard 150s. In fact everthing is bog standard for the FCR kit. The dyno I rang today said a dyno run won't fix a pilot/idle circuit problem. Plugs are the DPR8EA9 NGK iridium equivalent
I'm kind of stuck...I've had really bad experiences with 2 mechanics with these carbies and don't know who to trust anymore
edit: Home from work now and had time to think...maybe the tinking noise is simply because I'm chucking more mixture down rexie's throat enjoying the FCRs. The temp guage itself is pretty normal, getting just above 60 on the fang home (currently 22 deg outside). The off-the-line gutlessness is worse as the bike warms up which is supposed to be a rich condition, no? I'm not experiencing and backfiring whatsoever.
I think I might buy another bike so I can take my time getting the trx right myself. The local mechanics have been a massive and expensive FAIL. Then I could take my time and not panic I'm mucking around with my only transport...think my wife'll buy that story?

Not quite sure who has told you 150 mains are standard but that seems very low to me.

IME (and it has to be said it varies by country) 158 or 160 is what is needed on a standard engine with a free flowing exhaust

mine came stock with 150 mains also

I know mine under 2500rpm upon riding (especially just putting round in traffic) and opening the throttle, it's working ok, but you can hear that it's not quite right and you can feel it's prob not quite 100% in that range, I"m sure ignition set full advance and exhaust system are contributing factors.
Off the line isn't a problem as a little throttle clutch control easily gets you past this point straight away, but keep rolling the throttle on through the rev range and the front wheel keeps rising.
You just may have to learn to massage that throttle a little more in the lower register

phuk72 wrote:Not quite sure who has told you 150 mains are standard but that seems very low to me.

IME (and it has to be said it varies by country) 158 or 160 is what is needed on a standard engine with a free flowing exhaust

150 standard yes, but to be matched with airbox...no good if airbox taken out!