Yamaha TRX850 Enthusiasts Forum

hi guys, got a quick question for ya. i tried a new fireblade nissin radial M/C with my yzf 6 pots and after hours of bleeding no joy, the lever kept going back to the grip WHY!!!. now i have just purchased some blue spots to go on the bike and am worried that the same will happen again. i will be putting some 5.1 srt fluid in and at £50 a litre i dont want to go wasting it. i will find out the new ratio tomorrow and post. one last question is the trx m/c the same as the yzf one?.

markrennie wrote:hi guys, got a quick question for ya. i tried a new fireblade nissin radial M/C with my yzf 6 pots and after hours of bleeding no joy, the lever kept going back to the grip WHY!!!. now i have just purchased some blue spots to go on the bike and am worried that the same will happen again. i will be putting some 5.1 srt fluid in and at £50 a litre i dont want to go wasting it. i will find out the new ratio tomorrow and post. one last question is the trx m/c the same as the yzf one?.

One time i nearly tore my hair out, it turned out i had a nearly impossible airbubble in the mastercylinder.
After leaning bike over some more and chaking a bit while freneticly "wanking" the lever it finally came out, hence why i have a master with bleed on top...other fill from bottom up.....

Yup I had a nightmare with mine, I am using the six pots for now (will see how they go but have a set of bluespots standing by, just got to do the fork mod on the yzf front end) and have used a 10mm from a fazer (Renthal bars) as opposed to the 5/8 (?) standard one for the trx, I havnt used it yet but it feels as though it will be good,

I spent hrs trying to bleed it, and then went to by a replacement Gunsons easybleed for the one I have lost somewhere, connected it up to a low pressure tyre (10psi?) "fettled the end" so it would fit on the bleed nipple, opened the bleed nipple and then with a cloth at the ready undone the banjo bolt at the master cylinder. Round the other side to do the same...

Pretty much instant results,

well worth the £20 for it, you get loads of attachments with it so might even fit a round screw on m/c (also good for c.a.r.(shhh dont mention the c word!) brakes as you can bleed them on your own easily)

Sounds like the same problem I had with the rear brake on my Aprilia SL1000 Falco. No matter how much I tried I could not get a brake. I borrowed my mates hand pump vacuum easy-bleeder and still failed. I replaced the caliper & master and still no joy. I then purchased a sealey tools brake bleeder, just connect it to an airline and hey presto, best bit of kit I've ever used for brake bleeding, works on the most stubborn of airlocks in seconds.

http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.a ... uctid=8681

If it is air, try the old trick of taping the level back to the bar overnight.
Also, if you tap/bash/vibrate the brake line, it helps air rise up.
I made a brake bleeder out of a washng-up liquid bottle and a small length of plastic pipe attached: squeeze air out bottle, attach pipe to nipple and let it suck fluid through.

I find the back brake on the TRX a bitch to bleed from empty. I seem to get an air bubble trapped at the top of the master cyl.

With that I tip the master cylinder upside down and then bleed to that banjo at the rear caliper before I bolt the line to the caliper

Why not fit a Banjo bolt with integral bleed nipple?

http://www.trialsuk.co.uk/products/banj ... eed-nipple

Sorted!

Of the many, many radial M/cyl I have bleed, you do need to get it right at the m/cylinder first. That product Mince has found would make things a little easier. Or take the lever off the bar and hold upright to bleed air(not always successful) I have a vac bleeder and this does make life a lot easier now.

Let it bleed through the pot,keep the nipples closed and watch the air come back through the pot.Also don't use long big strokes on the lever short fast strokes will get all the air out.

sometimes really stubborn air bubbles can be released if you take the master cyl off the bars entirely, suspend it above the bike from a rafter or something so the hose is stretched out.
Then hold the lever (as in the braking position) with a cable tie and leave overnight.

Good luck

as always, air will eventually find its way out if you place the 'out' door above the 'in' door.
when i swapped the TRX braideds for the R6 ones, i held the calipers up above the master after cracking the lines and nipping them back up.
it seemed to help a bit.
cheers
fung

Try a syringe next time and either suck it through from the caliper or inject fluid from the caliper up to the master cylinder this usually shifts any air bubbles.

cheers for the info on bleeding guys, i have bought a sealy air gun bleeder to help with the re-fill but no one has yet answered my question on the radial m/c the ratio is 11/16 or 16/11 if it matters which way round and the standard m/c is 7/8 will this radial m/c work with the blue spots ok and what should i expect more feel or more power?. also i need to do the mod to the yzf fork lowers to accomodate the blue spots, any suggestions on what i can use to remove the metal? i was just gonna use a round grinder wheel with my hand drill, or use a fein multimaster to cut out the whole shallow part.

The stock TRX m/c is actually 5/8 or 16mm (15.875 precisely). The ideal m/c for the bluespots is around 14mm, the stock R6 /1 m/c bore size.
The Honda radial m/c with a 16mm bore might not be much of an improvement if any over the stock TRX fitment, but you should try it and see.
My ISR radial m/c is 15.87 but as Killerwhale can confirm the braking `feel` is incredible:

http://www.isrbrakes.se/products/master ... -014.shtml

Mincehead wrote:The stock TRX m/c is actually 5/8 or 16mm (15.875 precisely). The ideal m/c for the bluespots is around 14mm, the stock R6 /1 m/c bore size.
The Honda radial m/c with a 16mm bore might not be much of an improvement if any over the stock TRX fitment, but you should try it and see.
My ISR radial m/c is 15.87 but as Killerwhale can confirm the braking `feel` is incredible:

http://www.isrbrakes.se/products/master ... -014.shtml

Yup, AND adjustable!