Yamaha TRX850 Enthusiasts Forum

Ok - here it is, the last question before I got an put it all back together...

The R1 yoke has the OE switch still attached, but the wiring configuration looks different to the TRX. I'd like to remove the TRX switch and install it in the R1 yoke, but am I correct in assuming that they've been fixed with tamper-proof (lost head) bolts? I've seen yokes offered without switches so they must come out somehow, but I'd rather not fek mine up finding our how it's done... Can a tap-extractor or an Easy-Out(?) be used ??

T I A


G

Just drill the head and twist the threaded part out with mole grips or stud extractors if they're tight. Worked for me every time.

Greg wrote:Ok - here it is, the last question before I got an put it all back together...

The R1 yoke has the OE switch still attached, but the wiring configuration looks different to the TRX. I'd like to remove the TRX switch and install it in the R1 yoke, but am I correct in assuming that they've been fixed with tamper-proof (lost head) bolts? I've seen yokes offered without switches so they must come out somehow, but I'd rather not fek mine up finding our how it's done... Can a tap-extractor or an Easy-Out(?) be used ??

T I A


G

Easy-outs normally work, although sometimes they can break in situ.

I think I ended up welding a nut onto the top of mine and turning it out with a spanner.

Top tip - check the connectors before you chop them off. They may be the same and that would save you having to solder the connector back on.

Don't ask me how I know this

phuk72 wrote:Don't ask me how I know this

Greg wrote: The R1 yoke has the OE switch still attached, but the wiring configuration looks different to the TRX. I'd like to remove the TRX switch and install it in the R1 yoke....

Actually I don't think the TRX switch will fit an R1 yoke; It's a different length and hole spacing.... Better measure it first eh? Or better still replace the block connnectors on the TRX loom and R1 switch and use the R1 one..... (if you see what I mean) Assuming you have a key of course.....

BTW early R1's have the same block connectors as UK spec TRX's. If you have this combination it should plug straight in.

Well I have the key, and the switch is better than the TRX's, but it seems to be one wire short... the TRX has the two high current wires plus 4 others, the R1 switch has 2 plus 3... unless there's a wire missing of course!

I was thinking of doing away with the conventional switch altogether and running it with the kill switch as a master on/off. And a big chain for in town of course!

Import TRX's only have 2+2 wires on the switch.... go figure....

time to get out the wiring schematics then ... bugger!