spraying tips

[jjmoto]

For a variety of reasons i'm going to paint my replacement fairing myself using rattle cans I usually shy away from painting bodywork but needs must. I'll have to get colour mixed so how many cans? I got one of those sticker sets off ebay which I want to fit before laquering. Also want to paint inner fairing black easier to do this first or after? Not looking for show winning job just want a tidy finish any tips appreciated. Cheers

[phuk72]

Have you got any quotes from body shops - you may be surprised by how much you spend on rattle cans and still don't get a decent finish.

Rattle cans serve a purpose but ... At a guess, you will want 1 black, 1 base, 2 colour and 1 top coat. So that's a good £30 - £40 in paint as a minimum.

Firstly, you don't mention what colour. Some colours are an absolute bitch to match (Yamaha blue for example) and you will need to be aware that simply having a colour match paint will not give you the colour you want. And that the colour of the basecoat and the number of coats of paint and top coat you give will affect the end result.

If you are intent on going down this route, prep, prep, prep and more prep is the key. TBH it doesn't really matter which you paint first and you will need to mask the whole fairing properly for the black section.

Also, not sure if you have a fibre glass replica or a GRP original in a different colour.

But in simple terms, you want to rub down the fairing and ensure it is completely smooth, lay down a couple of base coats (some suggest rubbing down between basecoats), then start with the paint. Lay down thin coats and rub down between. Ideally you want a well ventilated, dry and dust free area to paint. Do not be tempted to paint outside - you will get dust or bugs blown onto the paint. You will need at least 3 coats to get a decent cover - perhaps as many as 10 to get the colour match / finish you want.

There are loads of pointers on line and plenty of youtube videos.

[skull-candy18]

I find it really difficult to get a good finish with rattle cans, If it was a track bike maybe but I would just take it to a bodyshop, if you want to cut costs you can prep it yourself.

[jjmoto]

Its a GRP oe fairing I bought from Mark Rennie last year, I've filled a couple of holes which were drilled either side of the headlight for some reason & also a couple of cracks which I ground out to make a better base for the filler. It was black origionally I;ve flatted the gloss finish off. The colour I want to match the tank is a VW yellow, my bike is painted pretty much the same as SadManSteves but with black wheels, I always have primer & satin black in stock.

[phuk72]

A fairing is a big lump of colour and if there is even the slightest colour variation (vs teh tank for example) it will be noticeable.

That said, yellow shouldn't be too hard to match up and you will get an OK finish with rattle cans but I would be looking for a mate with a compressor or having a chat to a spray booth / accident repair shop if I was you.

[alextrx850]

being in the auto repair trade,..the rattle can paint is a fast drying acrylic while the auto trade spray paint is a 2 pack high gloss...much to the diference to paper glue and araldite.
The rattle can paint is a pain to get rid of and no auto shop will paint over it to fix it up....complete strip and start again,..[much more expense]
would you apply araldite over paper glue and expect a good lasting job ?
Each type of application has its merit tho..!
Find where the auto shop boys drink..we often do home jobs.
But if you go with the rattle can, do lots of fine paper work..800 grit wet..lay the rattle paint fine at first, then the last two coats wet to bring up the gloss ...1500 wet before polishing.
The rattle paint has high octane solvents , so will be cold and attract condensation..try to paint in the sun for heat.

[jjmoto]

A fairing is a big lump of colour and if there is even the slightest colour variation (vs teh tank for example) it will be noticeable.

That said, yellow shouldn't be too hard to match up and you will get an OK finish with rattle cans but I would be looking for a mate with a compressor or having a chat to a spray booth / accident repair shop if I was you.

Sadly my mate who sprayed it a couple of years back was punted off his Harley by a pikey in a Transit & is out of action for several months with a busted ankle & mashed foot which he nearly lost.
Cheers for the tips anyway

[phuk72]

being in the auto repair trade,..the rattle can paint is a fast drying acrylic while the auto trade spray paint is a 2 pack high gloss...much to the diference to paper glue and araldite.
The rattle can paint is a pain to get rid of and no auto shop will paint over it to fix it up....complete strip and start again,..[much more expense]
would you apply araldite over paper glue and expect a good lasting job ?
Each type of application has its merit tho..!
Find where the auto shop boys drink..we often do home jobs.
But if you go with the rattle can, do lots of fine paper work..800 grit wet..lay the rattle paint fine at first, then the last two coats wet to bring up the gloss ...1500 wet before polishing.
The rattle paint has high octane solvents , so will be cold and attract condensation..try to paint in the sun for heat.

You can buy 2 pack in rattle cans Not cheap but I've just touched up the paintwork on my Lancia with it and the finish is ace (after loads of prep and polsihing with a cutting / finishing compound). And you get to pull a pin like a hand grenade to release the chemicals

[cloutiedumplings]

hi mate just a tip from me , usually when i paint anything yellow i use white undercoat . painting straight on black will take forever and never match . take your time and practice on the old panel first . i will say tho get it wrong and it will cost even more at a bodyshop as that acrylic stuff is a nightmare under 2k paints although if anyone else has this kind of trouble i usually seal it in with a waterbourne primer (glasurit one is real good) . hope i helped a little there .....