Xenon conversion, something went wrong, working fine now!

[Trixz]

Hiya - I had exactly the same pfoblem with my KTM - there's just not enough current available through the existing wiring to give the ballast that extra 'bang' it needs to spark up... AFAIK there's quite a high initial current demand, but once its running the current required is significantly reduced (very similar to domestic fluorescent light ballast supplies...) so no need to worry about frying the loom!

I ended up having to fit a simple switching relay using the original feed from the light to trigger the relay which switched a supply direct from the battery. No problems at all after that and the light sparked up with full juice straight away.

Did you go for one of the bi-xenon kits with the telescoping capsule??

I've got one I bought last year that was going on the Beemer but I never got round to fitting on account of the arseache of taking off acres of bodywork... The TRX looks a much more simple fitting procedure!

G

Thanx for your comment Greg, could be another sollution if the 'problem' stays

Greetz
Gerben

[Trixz]

I'm getting another one from the distributor

Then it's first back to testing on the car before mounting it on the REX, just 2 be sure

[Trixz]

Got my new 'kit' last week (with a smaller (or slender) ballast this time) and I've installed it yesterday.... after a test on the car. It was O.K. on the car..... but sadly it's not on the REX

With enough 'power' in the battery, engine running, the Xenon starts, then it's shining brighter (as trying to reach maximum power) and out it goes

I can do this over and over again... with the same result.

I'm thinking of a new battery first and then go from there

Greetz
Gerben

Ps. the previous kit needed a minimum of 13.2V, this one now, needs only 9V.....

[Trixz]

This is the 'kit'

[Kevtrx849]

Looks very similar to my kit but i had a relay and inline fuse installed on mine. No problems so far. These kits are supposed to use 33% less power so i wouldn't think it would be battery.

[Trixz]

Looks very similar to my kit but i had a relay and inline fuse installed on mine. No problems so far. These kits are supposed to use 33% less power so i wouldn't think it would be battery.

I've been thinking it through... still believe it can't (or shouldn't) be my battery but I'm thinking of 'trial and error' principle and I will see where it(hopefully) fails

Greetz
Gerben

[Waz]

I'm with Kev and Greg, try a relay.

[Greg]

Trixz...

I'm wondering if you have the right kit ... if it's a Bi-Xenon then you should have another switching relay box built into the wiring harness...

That capsule in your picture doesn't look like a telescoping Hi-Lo unit which is much bulkier.




This is mine - see the black box with 4 wires from it? That's the switching relay for the hi-lo telescoping, but it's connected directly to the battery so it doesn't suffer from any current losses in the OE loom. The capsule also looks different to the one in your pic which looks like a single 'filament' capsule...

If it works with the supply for your car lights, then I'd suggest that your car has larger gauge cables which can handle the high initial current draw of the ballast unit.

HTH

Greg

[Trixz]

WOW what's this ... looks O.K. our new look for the forum

Well.... I've found out that the kit is manufactured in China ...

This is what it looks like (some part missing)...(stupid me for not taking any picture at ALL before the assembly )



Here's the drawing (H4) on the right in the middle of the kit... due to the size it's just the link
http://moto-images.caradisiac.com/IMG/j ... _Xenon.jpg


@ Greg

Your last sentence in your post above is also true. But it bothers me, that the set is 'plug and play' so it should work right away..

[Greg]

Ok - Now I see ...

You've got one of those HID/Halogen hybrids, with HID on low beam and conventional halogen on the high beam, I'm assuming that the lead to the ballast will plug into the socket on the OE loom that normally connects to the H4 bulb ... I think you're down on current from the OE loom so will almost certainly need a switching relay to provide full alternator/battery voltage to the ballast. This is proven by the unit working on the car's battery. Even though it says it only needs 9 volts it will still need a high initial current to 'start' the ballast which you'll only get by using a harness connected directly to the battery - the relay is King!

G

[Trixz]

@ Greg

I will try the idea a.s.a.p. ... but now there is only time for my newborn son Levi

Greetz
Gerben

[John M]

@ Greg

but now there is only time for my newborn son Levi

Greetz
Gerben

Hey Gerben, congrats... hope you get some sleep!

[Trixz]

@ Greg

but now there is only time for my newborn son Levi

Greetz
Gerben

Hey Gerben, congrats... hope you get some sleep!

[off-topic]
The first night home we didn't, now we do
[off-topic]

[Trixz]

Tadáá



A short (story) version how to.....

Took a relay and connected the lamp directly to the battery.... no change at all !
In total confusion switched the 2 wires for ground and it worked (should have done it earlier eejj )
I'm still a bit confused as it isn't the way that is shown on the drawing, anyway... it works

Thanx everybody for there comments and ideas

Greetz
Gerben

Ps. Mods... you can close this thread if you want to.

[Trixz]

Just a picture to show the wires and ballast...



Greetz
Gerben