FCR kit cost

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Mincehead
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Re: FCR kit cost

Post by Mincehead » Mon May 30, 2011 3:50 pm

For those in the UK, BRS are doing a pretty good deal, matching US prices in the UK:

http://www.brspecialtuning.co.uk/keihin.htm
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Re: FCR kit cost

Post by handsomejackuk » Mon May 30, 2011 5:40 pm

cool i like that...

Al...

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Re: FCR kit cost

Post by Marty Moose » Tue Jun 07, 2011 2:35 pm

Arrived today :)

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Almost got em on matched the inlet spigots and bored the rubbers just need a bit of tidying up before I run it. Comes with 150 mains may go up a bit I think to start with.

MM

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Re: FCR kit cost

Post by Mincehead » Tue Jun 07, 2011 4:36 pm

They are truly things of beauty. :wink:
I run 170 mains in mine, `just` fat at the top end but better a tad rich than weak. By the way, polish those blue plastic bellmouths through their bores, (T cut works well) it helps speed up and straighten the incoming air.
It`s amazing to watch the air condensing on their walls when the bikes being dynoed. :D
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Re: FCR kit cost

Post by Marty Moose » Wed Jun 08, 2011 12:28 am

Thanks Mince will do. I've had a bit of a troll around regarding jetting. You run Ramair filter right ?? I'm going to run the air box opened up with a K&N do you know anyone else who runs this and the jetting they run. I won't be putting the bike on a dyno it will be done by feel and trial and error, the local dyno refuses to do carbed bikes. Was thinking of starting with a 160 because of the air box.

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Re: FCR kit cost

Post by M.V. » Wed Jun 08, 2011 2:25 am

Those are lovely Marty.
Mincehead wrote:By the way, polish those blue plastic bellmouths through their bores, (T cut works well) it helps speed up and straighten the incoming air.
It`s amazing to watch the air condensing on their walls when the bikes being dynoed. :D
Please explain? To match the plastic to the metal or..?

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Re: FCR kit cost

Post by cobbadiggabuddyblooo » Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:11 am

originally running the airbox and std system with staintunes the std jetting was fine but the airbox is restrictive especially close to redline in top gear but put the bellmouths on and made up my own ramair sock it pulled like a train all the way to the revlimiter.
Even with the larger bore 2 into 1 system on mine which may still be a little restrictive with a 50mm inlet 58mm outlet on the muffler and changing to the bellmouths I still have the 150 jets but have lifted the needles and changed the pilot air jet that sits just under the bellmouth to suit. All results from dyno and giving me 87hp at the rear wheel from a 100,000km old dog
Start from stock is my suggestion thats why they are set that way
Get some air filter foam it cost me $16 for 2 sheets and 1 sheet will make a twin sock to fit the bellmouths. and feel the difference
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Re: FCR kit cost

Post by Mincehead » Wed Jun 08, 2011 6:44 pm

M.V. wrote:Those are lovely Marty.
Mincehead wrote:By the way, polish those blue plastic bellmouths through their bores, (T cut works well) it helps speed up and straighten the incoming air.
It`s amazing to watch the air condensing on their walls when the bikes being dynoed. :D
Please explain? To match the plastic to the metal or..?

No just to make them super slippery through their bores, when the bike is being run up on the dyno you can see the air condensing on the inside of the bellmouths, polishing them helps to stop some of this and creates a smoother / faster / straighter airflow. :wink:

Edit:
In reply to Marty, yes I`m currently running single Ramair sock filters but am considering linking them to help the motor breath better at low revs, as the valves close you get some mixture spitting back through the carbs and by linking them some of that can be used by the opposite carb drawing it in.
Might help in quieting the slides a tad too, we`ll see. It`s more an experiment than tuning science to be honest.
Many folk run the twin Ramair filter, (MS009 from memory), so don`t get this.
Last edited by Mincehead on Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: FCR kit cost

Post by M.V. » Thu Jun 09, 2011 12:03 am

Mincehead wrote:No just to make them super slippery through their bores, when the bike is being run up on the dyno you can see the air condensing on the inside of the bellmouths, polishing them helps to stop some of this and creates a smoother / faster / straighter airflow. :wink:
Thanks for the explanation, much appreciated.

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Re: FCR kit cost

Post by Marty Moose » Thu Jun 09, 2011 12:35 am

FCR's fitted will put pics later as I could not find a FCR fiting post on here with pics, did a qick lap of the block last night HOLY CRAP what a difference. I got some dyno time too to set up the mains and air box/pods set up.

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Re: FCR kit cost

Post by cobbadiggabuddyblooo » Thu Jun 09, 2011 6:48 am

What sort of exhaust do you have Marty?still running the std headers?? and what sort of setup are you doing with the airbox and pods??? it's a bit of a boost hey,feels good, 8) thro the bellmouths on and go for a quick lap and feel the diff :wink:
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Re: FCR kit cost

Post by Marty Moose » Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:55 am

Just the std box atm I'm worried about dust as W.A is dusty. What are you running ?? pods or air box? Can you run the bell mouths with pods like K&N or do you need the foam ones.

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Re: FCR kit cost

Post by Mincehead » Thu Jun 09, 2011 1:15 pm

If you run the blue bellmouths the foam sock filters simply pull over them, they don`t need retaining either as the foam is a stretch fit and they just sit against the underside of the fuel tank.
Individual K & N type or similar types of filter can easily be clamped on the outside diameter of the carb mouth. :wink:
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Re: FCR kit cost

Post by Marty Moose » Thu Jun 09, 2011 1:32 pm

Thanks Mince wil have to research this a bit. With your sock filters how do they cover the air bleeds ?? They exposed thay are external to the bellmouth.

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Re: FCR kit cost

Post by Mincehead » Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:20 pm

The sock foam is thick enough that it actually butts up against them, offering some dust / crud filtering.
I`ve also got some beautifully made alloy bellmouths from Sudco in the states, they physically cover those leaving an air gap to the side but when I tried them on the dyno they didn`t give the kind of results that the blue bellmouths gave.
The best power figures were achieved with the blue bellmouths fully open without the socks pulled over them, but obviously to keep the nasties out on the road the common sense approach is to keep the socks on. :wink:
Last edited by Mincehead on Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:24 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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