Don`t drop this one!

[Mincehead]

Hi lads and lassies,been around here as visitor for some time,still chewing through the site marking threads for future reference etc.Own a fightered 96 `bag of TRiX` obligatory black and love it.
Now I recently found something with the type of torque we would all love I`m sure;

http://www.leonhardtweb.de/en/gunbus/technology.htm

Some motherhumper eh?

http://thekneeslider.com/archives/2007/ ... otorcycle/

Two cylinders of an aircraft radial engine,like a pineapple piece if you like,quite something.
Anyways,sorry for the short visit,must fly I`m at work.

[slow codger]

Bit on the big side, fine for drag races tho'

Dave E

[steve speed]

its a mans bike for sure

[Mincehead]

It most certainly is,imagine getting the combats caught in those exposed chains though?
Might be a eunuch`s machine after that!
Cheers for the replies guys,I`m likely to be around a fair bit on and off.
I must offer my congratulations to a well run forum,with,I might add,some very technically minded and knowledgable engineer types too,I`m impressed.
You`ll forgive me for spending more time looking around the many threads before I become entrenched in putting my own ten-penuth in though?
Here`s some other goodies to mull over in the meantime,now I`m not a `multi` lover but:

http://thekneeslider.com/archives/2006/ ... otorcycle/

And this beast,guaranteed to `steer` itself with torque reaction!

http://thekneeslider.com/archives/2006/ ... otorcycle/

By the way if you look for `radial engined motorcycle` on glueTube you can hear it running too.

[Mincehead]

Question for you knowledgeable lot:

I`ve just secured myself a complete 1994 YZF 750 front end,complete job lot,yokes,forks,six pot calipers,wheel,guard,even getting the master cylinder and lines thrown in,200 quid!
Now,can I make sure of my own belief that all I need to do is change the YZF stem for a stock TRX one?
I plan to keep my fightered look so will either have to drill top yoke and fit some bar clamps,or look out for a custom/straight bar top yoke conversion.
Anyone got one of these or can point me in the direction of any suppliers?
Now I`ve ridden a YZF(1995)years ago but for the life of me cannot remember the type of damping/rebound on an early(one year into the production run)model.
The forks are black in colour,did I remember wrong,I thought they were gold anodised?
I don`t think they`ve been painted.

UPDATE:

I`ve now picked up the YZF front end and the forks are not adjustable in any way.
Also when tipping them up and down the oil sounds to be of a very low viscosity,does anyone have any schematics of early YZF forks and could post them on the forum or photocopy them and post out to me?
Oil volume and grade specifications would be useful too.
Ok,another little brain picker,the emulsion tube problem(carbs),are the factory pro ones I`ve seen on ebay made of steel,stainless steel,or nickel plated brass,anyone know?
And FORTY quid?That seems bloody steep to me,I could likely make some a LOT cheaper than that in a workshop available to me if I knew the exact dimensions.
I`m wondering if Allens could contact Mikuni on my behalf to obtain the said dimensions,after all it`s difficult to extrapolate dimensions from already(albeit slightly)worn ones.I`ve got a spare set of carbs but sadly those are in even worse shape!
I`m on a roll now,so here`s some more questions;

Anyone disconnected the OE water pump(saves a BHP or so)in favour of a thermostatically controlled electric one?
There`s an opportunity here to also get rid of the bloody great Yamaha thermostat too remember.
Oh and before I go,anyone got a spare coolant stub?
That`s the one that`s held in the head with an M6 cap screw,and pickles away like mad.
Mine is very scabby and the O/D looks to have diminished somewhat,I`m thinking of getting a stainless one fabricated but if I can source an original in good nick I`ll just Hammerite it and bake it on in the oven.
Nowt nicer than the sweet smell of a freshly baked,Hammerited bike part.
I`m considering adding some stainless frame rails along the tube run where the rear footrest hangers bolt on.
Think 200 mm long stainless kitchen cupboard door handles for an idea of their shape.
Some `hacksaw harry`(before me) has been at the luggage lugs and left a mess,now there`s limited bungee points as the imbecile has also cut off the extension of the alloy footrest bracket and that`s another missing luggage holding point too.




Cheers members.

[Mincehead]

Any members out there?
Sorry,havn`t got the hang of this place fully yet but I`ve posted a few questions and wondering if anyone`s seen them?

Pssst,one post back from this one.

[Jak]

Don't worry ... they're just sleeping

[phuk72]

Question for you knowledgeable lot:

I`ve just secured myself a complete 1994 YZF 750 front end,complete job lot,yokes,forks,six pot calipers,wheel,guard,even getting the master cylinder and lines thrown in,200 quid!
Now,can I make sure of my own belief that all I need to do is change the YZF stem for a stock TRX one?
I plan to keep my fightered look so will either have to drill top yoke and fit some bar clamps,or look out for a custom/straight bar top yoke conversion.
Anyone got one of these or can point me in the direction of any suppliers?
Now I`ve ridden a YZF(1995)years ago but for the life of me cannot remember the type of damping/rebound on an early(one year into the production run)model.
The forks are black in colour,did I remember wrong,I thought they were gold anodised?
I don`t think they`ve been painted.

UPDATE:

I`ve now picked up the YZF front end and the forks are not adjustable in any way.
Also when tipping them up and down the oil sounds to be of a very low viscosity,does anyone have any schematics of early YZF forks and could post them on the forum or photocopy them and post out to me?
Oil volume and grade specifications would be useful too.
Ok,another little brain picker,the emulsion tube problem(carbs),are the factory pro ones I`ve seen on ebay made of steel,stainless steel,or nickel plated brass,anyone know?
And FORTY quid?That seems bloody steep to me,I could likely make some a LOT cheaper than that in a workshop available to me if I knew the exact dimensions.
I`m wondering if Allens could contact Mikuni on my behalf to obtain the said dimensions,after all it`s difficult to extrapolate dimensions from already(albeit slightly)worn ones.I`ve got a spare set of carbs but sadly those are in even worse shape!
I`m on a roll now,so here`s some more questions;

Anyone disconnected the OE water pump(saves a BHP or so)in favour of a thermostatically controlled electric one?
There`s an opportunity here to also get rid of the bloody great Yamaha thermostat too remember.
Oh and before I go,anyone got a spare coolant stub?
That`s the one that`s held in the head with an M6 cap screw,and pickles away like mad.
Mine is very scabby and the O/D looks to have diminished somewhat,I`m thinking of getting a stainless one fabricated but if I can source an original in good nick I`ll just Hammerite it and bake it on in the oven.
Nowt nicer than the sweet smell of a freshly baked,Hammerited bike part.
I`m considering adding some stainless frame rails along the tube run where the rear footrest hangers bolt on.
Think 200 mm long stainless kitchen cupboard door handles for an idea of their shape.
Some `hacksaw harry`(before me) has been at the luggage lugs and left a mess,now there`s limited bungee points as the imbecile has also cut off the extension of the alloy footrest bracket and that`s another missing luggage holding point too.




Cheers members.

Try reposting this in the relevant sections and you might have more luck

btw - yes, YZF front end fits in as you suggest (you may need a small spacer)

[idl1975]

There is a company that makes top yoke conversion kits - forget the name, but a bunch of the streetfighter people here have them. So the answer to that is 'yes', you don't have to make up your own, but no I don't recall the name of the company.

If you want some basic fork info, aside from getting a YZF haynes manual or having a google search for YZF forums and the Yamaha service manual, try Racetech. Your forks are probably '94-'95, same as mine (brown/black and nonadjustable).

http://www.racetech.com/evalving/menu/searchstreet.asp

Some info in there on spring rates and oil weight if you look, and lots of useful parts too if you want to rebuild them - assuming I haven't put you off the YZF.

[idl1975]

On the carbs, the wear happens with any needle jet - I think the prevailing theory is it's not needle or needle jet design as such, but the slide and slide guides. If you want a permanent solution, Keihin FCRs or Mikuni TDMRs. As you seem to be pretty handy though, you could buy some 39 - 41mm Mikuni snowmobile flatslides off e-bay and either make up your own intake manifold or break and remount the pair with the correct spacing. If you can get them to fuel, you should have extra power and no more emulsion tube wear!

I believe it's 800cc Skidoos you get them from. There's a whole section on e-bay for this stuff.

[Kayla]

You can use a Thunderace top yoke with the fork holes taken out to 50mm (?) and drill/plate that to take risers rather than stump up £lots for a top yoke conversion.

http://www.fjmods.btinternet.co.uk/MarcRittner2.htm

Failing that, if you want to do things 'properly' go to the Streetfighter store/998cc.com and order the full kit

http://www.streetfighterstore.co.uk/yamaha_comfort/14

I had a standard TRX top yoke drilled and plated and it was fine, except for the false sense of ability it bestowed

edit- early YZF forks are preload-only (damper rod?)

[phuk72]

As you seem to be pretty handy though, you could buy some 39 - 41mm Mikuni snowmobile flatslides off e-bay and either make up your own intake manifold or break and remount the pair with the correct spacing. If you can get them to fuel, you should have extra power and no more emulsion tube wear!

I believe it's 800cc Skidoos you get them from. There's a whole section on e-bay for this stuff.

I tried that route - even after picking up the carbs for $60 and having them shipped over for $40 it was going to work out expensive.

[Mincehead]

HEY THANKS ALL!
Sorry if my posting etiquete is a bit off,I`m not into computers in a big way and limit my time on them for mostly bike orientated stuff,bit`s,contacts etc
I`m still getting used to this place.
As for the electric water pump(thermostatically controlled)I`ve been looking at,it would enable me to junk that hideous Yamaha thermostat and once the impellor/drive pinion assembly is removed it`ll be one less item being driven off the motor and stealing a BHP or so.
The pumps are magnetically driven with ceramic bearings,very simple stuff,flow rate is increased too.
If anyone has a fish tank or garden pond,think the type of pump they normally use.
Well I`ll certainly do some reading up on the links that have been supplied,especially the Racetech one,the oil in the YZF forks sounds pretty low viscosity when I turn them back and forth.
I`m not in a mad rush to do the fork conversion but I`m planning on a good clean-up,inspect and rebuild if necessary(the dust seals need replacing anyway).
The top yoke conversion is an easy one really but M&P Accesories list billet items for the YZF at around 130 to 150 quid,might just go down that route depending on whether I eat for a week or not.
The coolant pipe(stub that`s secured in the head by an M6 cap screw)anyone got a good one kicking around doing nothing and would like a good home?(EDIT;I`ve secured myself one from a local breakers,so no longer required thanks)
Mine was scabbier than a lepar!
I`ve just finished rebuilding the stock carbs,I own an ultrasonic cleaner,it`s a great tool for carbs.
There is some wear in the emulsion tubes but they`ll live a while yet,ovality is good enough for eggs after all.
I tried to find a thread/post that I read a few weeks ago giving float heights but alas it`s hiding from me now.
From memory I think it was 14mm,was that measured from the carb body to the highest point on the floats and which one,they are different sizes?
I`ve a pal who builds drag bikes up,he`s got a bank of 4 FCR 41`s sitting in his workshop,I might work on him a little after he`s had a belly full of guinness.Might be able to sell the remaining pair too,he`s got a turbo project on the go and right now they`re not really on his mind(I hope ).
Although,what`s expensive about $100 for some second hand skidoo carbs when a set of FCR`s is what,about 700 quid?
Surely you can order all the necessary spacers,linkages etc from Keihin?
I`ll maybe do some Ebay trawling and see what I can come up with if the guinness persuasion tecqniques don`t work out.
Again i would like to congratulate the knowledgable members on here,you know your TRX`s that`s for sure.

[Mincehead]

Ok,seeing as this thread of mine has a multitude of various questions floating about it,here`s another for you knowledgable lot.
Secured my FCR41`s,with TPS fixtures but I`m struggling to find reference to the inlet stub lengths others have found work best on the forum.
I`ve currently got 34mm long stubs with an I/D of 39mm,not offered them up to the motor yet to ascertain if the stubs are long enough and the diameters are ok but was wondering what others run?
Got me a bag of jets thrown in with the deal too but as a guide what have most folk found to be a good starting point jetting wise?
I just want to have the carbs fettled up for fitment and to allow me to get the bike across to a dyno about 5 mile or so from where I stay,then it`s a matter of time,money and no doubt some ear plugs too.
I`ve got very short carbon cans,the term `silencer` doesn`t really suffice.
I`m going to sort out some sock filters to go over the standard blue Keihin bellmouths/stacks,likely I`ll make my own but I`ve recently found Pipercross list them:

http://www.pipercross.net/competition/p ... _socks.asp

I`ve emailed them with some dimensional requirements and am awaiting a reply.

Ooooo,nearly forgot,the std TRX stem,how easily is it pressed out of the bottom yoke,will heat be required or do they move pretty easily?
I have a spare bottom yoke assembly and will be starting to prepare my YZF front end for fitment over the coming months,wheel needs blasting and part coating(polished rims),foks require stripping and checking,new seals etc,they`re not leaking but I`m a bit of a perfectionist and the dust seals are de-laminating so it`s got to be done.

[Mincehead]

I know,I know,should post in a specified area of the forum and all that but since I started this mish-mash of a thread I just thought I would add to it.
Any members feeling like commenting on the questions asked in the post preceding this one?