Yamaha TRX850 Enthusiasts Forum

I have seen and understood that a number on this forum have fitted "blue-spot" forks (forks from the r1 that originally were fitted with the blue-spot calipers), but have seen less fitted with "gold-spots." Is there a mechanical/geometrical reason for this or is it simply a $$ vs. availability cause. Is there any benefit/detriment to fitting one model over the other (assuming that fitting the forks included the appropriate 'kit-and-caboodle' - triple-clamp, wheels, discs, clip-ons etc)

Your opinion and guidance on this matter would be appreciated.

Schmiffee

So is your question about the calipers or the forks?
For the calipers it just is a matter of availability. I've a set of "silverspots", they only differ in color on the outside.
As long as they are not radial mounted, you can go with goldspots if you want to.

Tarwetijger wrote:So is your question about the calipers or the forks?
For the calipers it just is a matter of availability. I've a set of "silverspots", they only differ in color on the outside.
As long as they are not radial mounted, you can go with goldspots if you want to.

He means the forks.

gold top forks are miles better ,,,, but they are 10mm shorter than blue top which are 15mm shorter than std , the gold top forks are a proper cartridge fork whereas the the blue top are upside down damper rod and although better than std they still need a re valve and possibly a re spring , i used racetec in mine and i did it myself but it still cost over £200 to do the job , if i were doing it again i would use gold top as they are better damped as std

idl1975 wrote: He means the forks.

I'll shut up then and go back to my corner.

So has anyone here done this yet? With the extra 10mm shortness in forks, how does this affect the handling? and what is the weight on the writsts like (I would assume being 25mm shorter than original TRX one's that the geometry would make the bike feel like it was lurching forward)?

Is there any difference in fitment - ie is it the same as the blue-spot forks with fitting the TRX stem, getting a spacer made up to suit and maybe grinding down some ellements of the TRX?

I would be glad to hear (read) any and all information on this topic

Schmiffee

schmiffee wrote:So has anyone here done this yet? With the extra 10mm shortness in forks, how does this affect the handling? and what is the weight on the writsts like (I would assume being 25mm shorter than original TRX one's that the geometry would make the bike feel like it was lurching forward)?

Is there any difference in fitment - ie is it the same as the blue-spot forks with fitting the TRX stem, getting a spacer made up to suit and maybe grinding down some ellements of the TRX?

I would be glad to hear (read) any and all information on this topic

Schmiffee

Bought them TRX ready, bottom modded for TRX wheel/speedo. Doesn´t look like rocket science but i just don´t have the time.
As for feel due to shorter i can´t feel any difference, but i had the TRX fork dropped quite a bit.

....no info there so i´ll stop rambling now!

Yer apparently 22mm was std for the forks to be dropped through the yokes on the trx and I have mine at 40mm and its fine with std forks so should imagine it would be no different geomety wise wiff da over jobbies. Just different boingee boingee damper reboundee characteristics frew da corna's n down da straits.. Wrists wasnt too bad at all(even with a broken scaphoid), bit harsh on the neck after a few hrs tho.

It's affected your tongue as well. Sure you weren't licking the 'gold tops'?

Hi, I bought a fightered Trx last year with gold tops already fitted, also has the gold spot calipers and R1 wheel. The only thing i have found is that the forks could probably benefit from uprated springs, etc (apologies about the terminology! and before you ask, yes im heavily set). Its only really noticable when you really push on and i'm comparing it to my old triumph daytona 600.

If i can work out how to do it i will post a couple of pics if anyone is interested. She's not pretty at the minute but has the all the right bits.

Yes thanks FAN...(oh so many places to go ) Some piccy's would be good - of your bike "Heavily Set?" I weigh around the 90kg...more heavily set than that??

Right, see if this works









I have to admit teh bikes also got a rear ohlins shock fitted as well so that probably helps things as well.

'heavily set' = 15 stone (100kg ish)

looks good ,,,, weres the frame number ?

I only just realised myself...Just checked the paperwork history and everything looks fine in terms of teh same numbers on everything but too be honest i dont know a lot about the implications of it not being there. I have pics of when the front end was done in 2004 and the bike was a 'normal' trx like the trx of the month. It was only fightered 2 years ago.

Apologies for hijacking the thread.

A solution with the shorter R1 forks might be to get an inverted or stepped top yoke specially made (Franks Racing in Adelaide would be an ideal place to go) where the the clamp parts of the top yoke are set lower than the top of the steering stem nut (instead of being flat, imagine the yoke as a humpback bridge). If I can find a picture, I 'll post it on to show what I mean. Might solve a lot of problems.

Bob