Engine Cut-Out/No Electrics

[mattywall]

Hi guys,

I've been having some serious reliability problems with my TRX lately and hoping to get an idea of what the problem might be.

The first time the problem arose was leaving work. Fired the bike up and it was idling very rough. Tacho was bouncing between 1000-6000rpm even though it was not revving anywhere near 6000rpm. Switched bike off and after a few minutes fired her up again and started no problem. Hit the road and then on the up-slope of the West Gate Bridge, bike just died. No power, no electrics. Nothing. Almost rear ended by a semi trailer that didn't notice I had stopped After pushing bike up and over bridge, had to get a tow home as no electrics to fire her back up. The regulator rectifier was replaced after this time.

Second time was riding to work on freeway and bike cut-out (same as before) but kicked back in 2 seconds later. Cut-out again and fired back up again as I pulled into servo to fill up. Went to start bike, ignition came on, then when I pressed the starter, a click noise and nothing. Had to leave bike at servo for the day. Stopped at the servo on the way home from work to give it another crack - started fine and rode home with no problems.

Went to go for a ride this weekend and as I pulled out of the driveway, bike cut-out again. No power or electrics.

Seems to be a very random problem as I have rode a few hundred kilometers between the incidents. Bike is running very well otherwise.

Thanks guys, I appreciate any suggestions, as it's not a good feeling knowing the bike might cut-out at any time.

Cheers,

Matt.

[QuickDraw]

If tacho is 'bouncing' and not being possessed by an error code, that suggests ignition circuit to me.
I only know of 3 Yamaha error codes displayed by the analogue tacho;

Code 3000 rpm: Throttle position sensor
Code 7000 rpm: Exup Related
Code 8000 rpm: fuel level indicator light sending unit

Only the first relates to the TRX of course.

With the electrics cutting out totally, connections is probably the first to check. I'd start at the ignition switch connectors. They can corrode to the point of non-conductivity (has happened to my bike). If you have a multimeter, check the voltages through the connectors too. High beam is another circuit I've had this happen on. (I generally don't ride at night. And if ever I do, I go steady!)

[dicky]

Seconded.
Check the ignition switch and connectors.
Apart from the 12v circuit to power the bike up there is loop circuit that enables the CDI unit. If the loop is broken the CDI stops operating. No sparks, no goes

[M.V.]

From memory, the tacho does that if the TPS is disconnected...

Start at the battery & check all the connection, battery terminals, etc, probably a good idea to measure the battery voltage also.

[trixynut]

Agree with MV.

First check the simple/obvious: battery terminals. On the Earth, check the other end where it earths to the frame too.

Tacho bouncing is a bad setting on the TPS connection, but that being wrong wouldn't cause the bike to not start of cut out: think that's a symptom of the problem rather than a problem.

lift the tank (it hinges backwards, you know) after disconnecting fuel lines and check all the connectors under there.

Also check the earth under there that goes to the rhs of the frame (black wire).