Changing rear shock - best practice

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Killerwhale
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Changing rear shock - best practice

Post by Killerwhale » Wed Apr 04, 2007 1:53 pm

How would you go about changing the rear shock, got an electrical fork lift where i work.....Hoist up it in the rear frame!?

Gimme your best practice! 8)

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Kevtrx849
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Take a load off

Post by Kevtrx849 » Wed Apr 04, 2007 6:49 pm

First time i did it i removed the tail unit and hung the bike from the roof of my shed with tie downs. Now i use a stool the same height as the rear wheel behind the wheel and run a plank between them and with various offcuts of timber i position a scissor jack under the subframe and take the weight off. I'll take a piccy and post it up because i'm sure my explanation sounds confusing.
CYA, Kev.
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Should still be plenty of clearance with plastics in place.
Last edited by Kevtrx849 on Thu Apr 05, 2007 6:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
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phuk72
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Post by phuk72 » Wed Apr 04, 2007 6:59 pm

Up on the paddock stand and, if you have non folding footpegs, axle stands on the rearsets.

Or up on paddock stand and suspend by rear subframe from a garage beam or tree.
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Post by trixynut » Wed Apr 04, 2007 9:31 pm

If I remember right, you can put wood blocks or a jack under the frame/swingarm mount plates that run top to bottom either side the bike to hold the back end up, if you don't have a beam handy to hang it from but you need to take the downpipes off first, if you see what I mean.

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Re: Changing rear shock - best practice

Post by Killerwhale » Thu Apr 05, 2007 7:53 am

Thank y´all!!!
Got to get that Ohlins on there as soon as the bike gets back from the tuner!

Happy easter! :bbq:
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Re: Changing rear shock - best practice

Post by phuk72 » Thu Apr 05, 2007 8:49 am

Killerwhale wrote:Thank y´all!!!
Got to get that Ohlins on there as soon as the bike gets back from the tuner!

Happy easter! :bbq:
And then you'll be back asking us how to remove the forks because you realise how crap your front end is when the Ohlins goes in :wink:
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Re: Changing rear shock - best practice

Post by Killerwhale » Thu Apr 05, 2007 9:56 am

phuk72 wrote:
Killerwhale wrote:Thank y´all!!!
Got to get that Ohlins on there as soon as the bike gets back from the tuner!

Happy easter! :bbq:
I have a pair of WP race springs spec 90Kg driver + racetech cart emulators wich where supposed to go in at the same time....but i had a change of heart yesterday....
I´m going for linear K-tech springs and the emulators....

So if anyone would like to buy a set of WP springs.....

And then you'll be back asking us how to remove the forks because you realise how crap your front end is when the Ohlins goes in :wink:
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Post by phuk72 » Thu Apr 05, 2007 9:59 am

I´m going for linear K-tech springs and the emulators....
8)
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Re: Changing rear shock - best practice

Post by dfh » Tue Apr 10, 2007 1:48 am

Killerwhale wrote:
phuk72 wrote:
Killerwhale wrote:Thank y´all!!!

Happy easter! :bbq:
I have a pair of WP race springs spec 90Kg driver + racetech cart emulators wich where supposed to go in at the same time....but i had a change of heart yesterday....
I´m going for linear K-tech springs and the emulators....

So if anyone would like to buy a set of WP springs.....

:wink:
If the WP springs and the K-tech springs are single rate springs of the same rate ( I weigh 95kg with all my gear on and use .9kg/mm springs for the road and .95kg/mm for the track) then as both are premium brands there will be no difference in their performance.

On the other hand if your WP springs are progressives then by all means get rid of them :roll:

FWIW I find the Race Tech emulators are fab. My settings are 1.5 turns rather than the 2 turns in recommended by Race Tech ( 2 turns in on the track with the .95 springs) with 20wt fork oil with much LESS oil than stock. I can pull the springs to measure if you need exact figure.

Ohlins tend to supply shocks with a spring rate the same as the stock shock. I would order the Ohlins with a stiffer spring than the standard TRX rate of 7.5 - 8kg/mm. I now usea spring 10kg/mm, 9 to 9.5kgmm if you are lighter than my 95kg ready to roll.

Cheers DFH
Now with 140,000 on the clocks, X-mas tree didn't kill it & I still love it.

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Post by dandywarhol » Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:54 am

It'a always best to finally torque the shock/linkage bolts up with the bike at it's normal ride height - it saves the bushes trying to shear under full compression (although not a problem if the unit uses metal rose joint type bearings)
1996 TRX 850, blue, Ohlins 46HRCLS, Race Tech Gold Valves, 0.90 springs, Venom pipes, R6 brakes............
1974 Yamaha RD250A, Candy Blue
1998 Yamaha SZR660, blue of course
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, Blue and white

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Post by Peter850 » Tue Apr 10, 2007 12:11 pm

Mc COY ROCKS :!:
Suncoasttrx in another world.

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Post by dfh » Tue Apr 10, 2007 12:35 pm

Peter850 wrote:Mc COY ROCKS :!:
'kin oath. Imagine him on Edwards' M1... What was it that Rossi said? .... I follow McCoy.. is very funny and I have the best seat to watch....

DFH
Now with 140,000 on the clocks, X-mas tree didn't kill it & I still love it.

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Re: Changing rear shock - best practice

Post by Killerwhale » Thu Apr 12, 2007 5:02 pm

dfh wrote:
On the other hand if your WP springs are progressives then by all means get rid of them :roll:
Thanks for great info!! ....and yes, WP´s are progressive ones.

//Kwhale
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