heart versus head!!!

colslate · Post by **colslate** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 12:34 am

ok, for too many reasons to list, been without trx for 9 months as stood in garage feeling sorry for meself, busted engine cases and gearbox shaft due to snapped chain, eventually found parts BUT will cost 200 squids for chain/sprox/gaskets + another 300-400 labour costs (couldn't fix meself to save me life!!) and risk engine without renewing bearings/rings/camchain OR just break her up (along with my heart!!) and look for another trx (anyone selling a good 'un??), could look for a standard one and fit my full skorpion system, r1 brakes with goodridges, ohlins damper, virgin mobile bodywork.
Need to make up my mind soon as just found out have booking confirmed for TT end of may.Any suggestions welcome as there isn't a viable replacement bike made (for me)
regards to y'all missed the site, well done chaps
colslate
oop north
angleterre

dfh · Post by **dfh** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 2:19 am

REBUILD REBUILD REBUILD DO THE FULL REBUILD....!

Just did the top end on mine - new valves, stem seals, recut valve seats, light cylinder hone and new rings & camchain and it goes very nicely thank-you.

If you have it apart to replace the cases then do it properly, half measures are just that and a waste of cash. If you go the total rebuild route then you have basically a brand new bike, hand build just for you, a top performer and a known quantity -sounds like you have the chassis and brakes sorted.

The best way to compare the cost factor is to look at the cost of a new bike of comparable type. BMW will sell you an ( somewhat bland) 800cc/85hp parallel twin for 6.5K of your pommy pounds. A reasonable TRX is worth 2K -2.5k. Spend 2k on a total rebuild and you're miles ahead.

Spending on another second hand bike that is at least 6 years old( it may be shiny on the outside but what about the inside?) is short term thinking and will cost more over time.

I'll guess your chain broke because you were eeking the maximum life out of it. The lesson is spend what you need to do the job properly at the time, skimping cost more later. Borrow a bike from the repairer if your TRX is not ready for the TT, or flog the tickets and ride the TRX to Brno for the MotoGP instead.

BTW what the donald is "virgin mobile bodywork"

DFH

Sanoj · Post by **Sanoj** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 8:44 am

BTW what the donald is "virgin mobile bodywork"

I think he means this one..

BR
Jonas, Sweden

colslate · Post by **colslate** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 8:55 am

yup, thats my bike!!

Quan-Time · Post by **Quan-Time** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 2:12 pm

buy a book, torque wrench, do yourself,, full rebuild.. you wont regret it !!

dfh · Post by **dfh** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 2:28 pm

colmac wrote:yup, thats my bike!!

Ahhh.. problem solved. Use the money you make from the advertising signwriting on your bike to pay for the rebuild.....

BTW whats with the steering damper? Even with my TRXs rear ride height raised and forks pulled up through the clamps its steering is so stable it has never given a twitch in almost 89,000km. And I'm a bit leery about tankslappers after a guzzi did a violent 170kmh lock to lock number that broke both thumbs, 1 wrist and a knee cap...

DFH

colslate · Post by **colslate** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 3:37 pm

damper was fitted when I bought it, the previous owner had the bike adapted to his stile of riding, he lost an arm years ago in an accident and took his wife out on the pillion, so he would have more use of it!!!

PhatVR6 · Post by **PhatVR6** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 10:50 pm

see if phuk still has those engine cases and gearbox

alternatively, there's one on ebay...

colslate · Post by **colslate** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 11:22 pm

have a set of engine cases with gearbox main shaft for transplant, my original motor done approx 18000 miles, so, what would be advisable replacing? cam chain, rings, shims or what, anyone know a good spannerman/shop, time of the essence as six weeks to tt, ideally not wanting to spend more than 500 squids all in, bearing in mind need new chain/sprox, can deliver pretty much anywhere uk as in transport
any advice greatfully received
regards
col
oop north

dfh · Post by **dfh** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 1:08 am

colmac wrote:damper was fitted when I bought it, the previous owner had the bike adapted to his stile of riding, he lost an arm years ago in an accident and took his wife out on the pillion, so he would have more use of it!!!

What kind of heroic woman would agree to sit on the vinyl hankerchief that passes as a pillion seat on a TRX, with footpegs just inches away from her date, behind a rider that has already lost an arm in an accident...!

As you lot say ooopnorf "nowt as queer as folk"

On a more serious note I cannot see it possible to do the work you need to get done with a budget of 500 pommy pounds including chain and sprockets. From the photo the bike looks like a nice example.... do the job properly. There is no point in doing a backyard bodge if the thing fails on the way to the TT. Spend what needs to be spent and dont rush it and it will get you to the next 10 TT's with no worries.

BTW how did the chain break?

DFH

Post by **phuk72** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 8:34 am

As phat has suggested, I've got a complete bottom end.

If I were you, I'd start ringing breakers and try and get a complete motor - you should get one for Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£600 and swapping them over is something you should be able to do yourself.

Then yu can sell the good bits or keep them as spares

colslate · Post by **colslate** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 9:43 am

been doin that since last june!!!!!, how can I justify spendin probably 800 squids on a 1400 bike, what would breaking fetch?
coated frame with bobbins 100
forks/yokes 100
coated wheels with discs 150 (have two sets)
fairing/double bubble 120
engine/cases 250
tank 75
seat/seat/cover/belly pan 150
ohlins damper 75
R1 calipers/goodridges 100
so thats over a grand!!

looks like she may be going!!

Post by **phuk72** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 9:55 am

Some of your estimates are rather optimistic (especially given that unless your bodywork is sold as a complete set it will need painting) but you are absolutely right in principle.

colslate · Post by **colslate** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 3:13 pm

ok realistic prices(?)
virgin bodywork incl black dbl bubble/seat cowl/belly/pan/seat/mudguard/mirrors/indicators Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£300
engine 18000 miles good motor but broken output shaft and cases but replacement parts incl Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£250
powder coated black frame/crash bobbins/lockset/keys swinging arm/shock incl v5 registration Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£200
two sets black powder coated wheels incl discs/tyres Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£100 set
skorpion stainless pipes Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£100
ohlins damper Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£75
R1 bluespots incl goodridge hoses Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£100
forks/yokes (allegedly with progressive springs) Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£125
any other parts by request currently only taking reservations
regards
col
oop north

trixynut · Post by **trixynut** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 3:32 pm

Mate,

You'll get much more for bodywork than that!

Seat cowl alone made Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£135 on ebay last week.

Dave.