New owner with a couple of questions...

[PeterGreen]

Hi, newbie here

I've had the TRX for a few months now and I've a couple of questions; I've just fitted a pair of Venom cans (with removable baffles - needless to say I've fitted them without the baffles) which sound superb, however I've not had the carbs jetted. I'm not really sure if there's any loss in performance, as I've not ridden her much on the standard cans. Anyone think it's worth getting them done? Will it cause any issues if they're not done?

The temperature gauge hasn't worked since I acquired her, anyone else had this issue? Is there a common fault with these?

A couple of pics of what 1100 English Pounds can buy...





Don't worry, I'll be replacing the lame Bart Simpson tank guard with a more tasteful one soon...

Many thanks.

[phuk72]

Apart from the dodgy blue anodised bits and the 'tasteful' stickers look like you got a bargain.

As standard, teh TRX runs rich so free flowing cans tend to sort out the mixture a bit. How mechanically minded are you? Assuming it is on standard jets (142.5 IIRC) then you'll not have the mixture too lean even with a free flowing air filter.

Saying that, you should have been able to notice a difference between very restrictive standard cans and open cans.

As for temp guage, are you sure it doesn't work. The TRX has a tendency to run cool with the guage not moving very far. Leave it running for about 10 mins and check to see if guage has moved. If it hasn't, most likely the wire has become disconnected. Simple job, tank up and reconnect wire (bullet connector IIRC) to top of coolant pipes.

[PeterGreen]

Yes, the 'tasteful' stickers will be removed soon...

I'm not very mechanically minded, however I have managed to check that the temperature guage is properly connected. I have also taken her on a couple of longish runs and let her sit iddling with no signs of life from the needle.

[madivi]

...managed to check that the temperature guage is properly connected.

Might be the temperature sensor as well. I would expect it to be a NTC resistor (not sure though).
Measure resistance when cold, then hot. Reistance should decrease with temperature, thus allowing current for needle movement.

Then if it's not the sensor. It might be that the power supply of the gauge is defective.
What about any fuse under the saddle?

I'm not sure of all this - rather guessing - but it might give you a hint.

[youngy]

There is an earth wire on the termostat body. Not sure if this might stop the thermometer working if it was not connected.

[Omegaman]

welcome Peter

Nice bike and good price ( i paid a little more for mine last year ) ( problem is i think i spent the same again on updates and making her beautiful again ) said to myself that i wouldn't spend a penny on her ( yeah right )


Hope you enjoy this wonderful machine as much as everyone else does

and
Blue is the quickest TRX

[Red Rex]

Welcome aboard. I wouldn't panic about the temperature gauge too much. I have to run mine on the stand in the garage for at least ten minutes before the needle starts to move (the cooling fan kicks in at about 106°C). Only time the gauge registers anything is on a hot summer day after a good thrashing.

[Red Rex]

PS .... If you don't already know this, keep an eye on the oil level. There's a knack to getting an accurate reading and two drain plugs to take account of during a change. Other than that, the TRX is a great bike to own. (Oh, until you have to change the spark plugs !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)

[idl1975]

Hi, newbie here

I've had the TRX for a few months now and I've a couple of questions; I've just fitted a pair of Venom cans (with removable baffles - needless to say I've fitted them without the baffles) which sound superb, however I've not had the carbs jetted. I'm not really sure if there's any loss in performance, as I've not ridden her much on the standard cans. Anyone think it's worth getting them done? Will it cause any issues if they're not done?

Hi Peter

Just to clarify - these bikes don't tend to overheat, even in town, like a fully-faired inline four will. I have trouble getting mine past the 70 degree mark even in slower traffic, whereas my old 'blade had to be kept above 40 mph to keep the fan from coming on! So don't panic too much about the needle not working.

Phuk is of course correct about the top-end richness of the standard jetting. However, I had my bike dynojetted and set up on a dyno, and the difference in throttle response was very marked. So if you can spare the time and money to have someone do that, it does definitely make a difference.

Aside from remembering to check the oil after every run (because a large percentage of TRXs burn oil at a rate), my only other unsolicited suggestion would be to grab a pair of blue-spot calipers from a breaker (or e-bay) and a YZF/R6/R1 14mm diameter master cylinder. This bolts straight on and gives you instant R1-style braking power (with no sticking calipers, unlike the original issue items) for about £100, give or take a pint of DOT4.

[PeterGreen]

Thanks for all the useful tips guys; looks like I'll be giving her a final long run on the stand to see if the temperature guage moves before I explore the other avenues suggested. I'll probably get her jetted when I find somewhere competent locally; at least I don't need to worry in the mean time.

I am due to give her a service in the next couple of weeks before my maiden track outing on her in May. What do I need to know about the spark plugs..?

I've checked the tech section of the forum for the correct oil to use, but there seemed to be quite a range that people suggested. Is there a particular grade that's recommended for the TRX or is it just a case of trial and error?

[phuk72]

Where are you - there are a number of Dyno houses in the UK with good reputations.

Oil for the UK - 10/40 should do it.

The comments about changing the spark plugs at service time relate to the fact that (unless you have ladies hands) getting a spanner on the plugs is a nightmare. You can create more space by swinging the rad forwards

[PeterGreen]

Where are you - there are a number of Dyno houses in the UK with good reputations.

Oil for the UK - 10/40 should do it.

The comments about changing the spark plugs at service time relate to the fact that (unless you have ladies hands) getting a spanner on the plugs is a nightmare. You can create more space by swinging the rad forwards

I'm based in Northamptonshire.

Thanks for the advice on the oil; should I go for a semi-synthetic?

[phuk72]

Northampton - you've got TTS at Silverstone - speak to Paul - or Rob at RFS at Mallory Park (used to be Rhencullen). Or Road and Track (I think) in Aylesbury or Grant at GP Performance just south of Oxford.

I can personally recommend the dyno work done by Grant and Rob. Never used TTS for dyno (but they know there stuff) and have had no dealing with R&T.

Semi synth will be good

[PeterGreen]

Great, loads of choices! Thanks again.

[idl1975]

Great, loads of choices! Thanks again.

Yeah, I don't think there's a consensus on oil, except that odds are your bike will burn it. I think just use factory recommended grades of bike-specific oil with the best API (or whatever) rating you can find. There's nothing that consistently breaks on these bikes as far as I can tell, except those bloody emulsion tubes.

I don't know what kind of bike you had last, but be prepared for the slower-than-average steering when you take it on the track. Corner entry above 70mph is not as easy as on "modern" sportsbikes!