Cam Timing

lars · Post by **lars** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 10:18 pm

In the Yamaha book it's called the E marker. I went for the Yamaha book because i was tolled the haynes book isn't always right!
I have both so i will compare them to see what's the difference.

THANKS TO ALL FOR THE QUICK REPLY'S
I think it's going to be fine now!

HansJ · Post by **HansJ** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 10:19 pm

Ahh, now I understand, You mean the "e" in the picture? That's an imaginary "e", like the "d" in the same picture. The "e" marks are the small notches on the camshells, they should line up with the marks on the cams.

Check piston position either by feeling with a screwdriver through sparkplughole, or better, the markings on the flywheel.

Tigcraft TRX · Post by **Tigcraft TRX** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 10:22 pm

'E' marker thru water pump - don't think so... Sounds like you've got it right anyway. Just check these 4 things.
1- Check Crank mark thru small inspection hole on L/H cover is on 2nd (TDC) mark and aligns with dash on the alternator cover. (1st mark is ignition timing mark)
2- Check both cam sprocket lines are level with head (cam lobes on no 1 cylinder (LH should face away)- there's also 2 punch marks to align on the camshaft and holders if you're unsure but these are a bas***rd to see on my bike.
3- Check cam chain tensioners in and tensioned
4- Turn engine over anti clockwise twice (720 deg) and check timing again - but turn really slow without plugs in, and if any hard resistance felt, stop and check your work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hope this helps

lars · Post by **lars** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 10:30 pm

I think i misread the illustration!

Looking at it again and reading the comments i just noticed the lines to the camshells, because that E in the picture is in the centre of the coolant outlet i got confused. Sorry!

steve speed · Post by **steve speed** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 10:35 pm

dozy fecker

............glad you sorted it out just don't do what phat did and smash the engine to bits just think how much money you saved by doing it yourself,,,, so dose this mean the beers on you ???

lars · Post by **lars** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 11:19 pm

Back again, sorry.
Not quite sure yet about that TDC and compression stoke stuff. If the TDC marker only appears on compressions stroke it's all fine but if it also appears on suctionstroke it won't do much damage (i hope) but it will not run.

I made a short crappy video of a 270 degree 4 stroke cycle, at least I think it runs like this:

http://motor.bensontwins.nl/270degree4stroke.wmv

keep pressing play and pause to keep track of stuff.

HansJ · Post by **HansJ** » Wed Sep 10, 2008 5:58 am

Am I already on your Ignore list or what?

The T mark will be visible twice in a 4 stroke work cycle.
The T mark only refers to cylinder 1, don't bother about cylinder 2, it will be fine because of the dedsign of the camshafts and the crankshaft's design. (But don't try to fit cams from an early TDM that are supposed to work with the 180 crank). With other words, don't bother about the 270 story.

Just do what Tigcraft wrote. I just want to add: don't tighten the camshells too hard, 10 Nm is absolute maximum. Lube the cams liberately with some moly fat. before starting, take out the tell-hole screw on LH side of the cylinder head, and crank the engine over until oil is dripping out, then You know there's oil at the camshaft bearings.

lars · Post by **lars** » Wed Sep 10, 2008 8:39 am

It isn't I don't want to believe your comments/instructions I just want to understand stuff.

HansJ · Post by **HansJ** » Wed Sep 10, 2008 10:49 am

lars wrote:It isn't I don't want to believe your comments/instructions I just want to understand stuff.

No worries, I am exactly the same. I took a more thorough look on your little movie, and it looks correct to me! Keep asking if anything is unclear! But be careful when tightening the camshells, I can't stress that enough... If the cams aren't revolving freely, they will overheat, wear down and finally get stuck, and then in worst case the teeth on the camsprocket on the crank will be destroyed, and You have to get a new crankshaft...

lars · Post by **lars** » Wed Sep 10, 2008 12:24 pm

Just before lunch I did a test start and it sounds perfect! Started very sweet without any rattles or noice!

@all
THANKS for the help

Post by **phuk72** » Wed Sep 10, 2008 1:12 pm

lars wrote:Just before lunch I did a test start and it sounds perfect! Started very sweet without any rattles or noice!

@all
THANKS for the help

No rattles or noise from a TRX engine? You must have put it together wrong

HansJ · Post by **HansJ** » Wed Sep 10, 2008 1:53 pm

phuk72 wrote:
lars wrote:Just before lunch I did a test start and it sounds perfect! Started very sweet without any rattles or noice!

@all
THANKS for the help
No rattles or noise from a TRX engine? You must have put it together wrong

Ooops, time to wipe coffee from my keyboard again

steve speed · Post by **steve speed** » Wed Sep 10, 2008 1:58 pm

well done

steve speed · Post by **steve speed** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 2:14 pm

this is with the marks for tdc bang on it looks slightly retarded in the valve timing ,,,new chain ???

Killerwhale · Post by **Killerwhale** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 2:33 pm

steve speed wrote:this is with the marks for tdc bang on it looks slightly retarded in the valve timing ,,,new chain ???

In my opinion this is how much it can differ when looking at the TDC mark at different angles, did you lay down on the ground looking straight or look from a squat position somewhat from above?

I mean the mark on flywheel now....

Yamaha TRX850 Enthusiasts Forum

Cam Timing

Re: Cam Timing

Re: Cam Timing

Re: Cam Timing

Re: Cam Timing

Re: Cam Timing

Re: Cam Timing

Re: Cam Timing

Re: Cam Timing

Re: Cam Timing

Re: Cam Timing

Re: Cam Timing

Re: Cam Timing

Re: Cam Timing

Re: Cam Timing

Re: Cam Timing