Using Blue Spot Calipers

[mickey7]

I brought a set off Ebay(R6) the pads were still in it so just slotted calipers straight on.They worked brill,felt like you could do a stoppie so much more feel than the original one's.Few months past then i decided to change the pads,big mistake Wooden brakes,i thought at first the pads just needed to be bedded in but 3000miles later..lol..still the same.Wish i'd kept the old pads to see what make they were

[idl1975]

I brought a set off Ebay(R6) the pads were still in it so just slotted calipers straight on.They worked brill,felt like you could do a stoppie so much more feel than the original one's.Few months past then i decided to change the pads,big mistake Wooden brakes,i thought at first the pads just needed to be bedded in but 3000miles later..lol..still the same.Wish i'd kept the old pads to see what make they were

Have you tried giving the discs a clean with some brake cleaner, followed by a good scrubbing with emery paper? If not, try it, plus pull the pads and clean out the calipers. Then rebed the pads and discs - find a straight bit (with no-one behind you) and do several smooth but hard stops from 60 - 0 to get some pad material from the new pads onto the discs. That might help. Or maybe the new pads just aren't much cop!

[steve speed]

as above ^^^^^^and if you do change pads the best ones Ive found for the road are EBC double sintered ,, another dodge is to put a small dab of grease on the bit of the front brake leaver that pushes on the piston what make of pad is in there now ??

[Kayla]

Yep, brake cleaner on the discs and I normally give them a good going over with a green scotchbrite and some bathroom scourer stuff too (like Jif or Cif or whatever it's called now.)

[troublemaker]

Have you tried giving the discs a clean with some brake cleaner, followed by a good scrubbing with emery paper? If not, try it, plus pull the pads and clean out the calipers. Then rebed the pads and discs - find a straight bit (with no-one behind you) and do several smooth but hard stops from 60 - 0 to get some pad material from the new pads onto the discs. That might help. Or maybe the new pads just aren't much cop!

i'd say "almost right" -

I follow this guide here - its very good.

It says do 60-10ish, and going all the way to 0 can cause issues....

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

Also for me the R1 master cylinder mads a MASSIVE difference to the brakes usability.

[dandywarhol]

Anyone tried a smaller bore m/c from an R1/R6 with standard calipers - with or without braided hoses?

Might be that the different leverage will sharpen up the standard brakes without going to the exuberant cost of bluespots on evilbay these days......................

[steve speed]

its been done about a million times !!!! most go for any 14mm master ,, but you do loose a bit of feel

[dandywarhol]

Surely you'd gain feel but at the expense of gaining more lever movement?

So a 15 mm from a FJR1300 might be a good compromise then

Didn't realise there were a million TRXs worldwide..................

[Banger]

I brought a set off Ebay(R6) the pads were still in it so just slotted calipers straight on.They worked brill,felt like you could do a stoppie so much more feel than the original one's.Few months past then i decided to change the pads,big mistake Wooden brakes,i thought at first the pads just needed to be bedded in but 3000miles later..lol..still the same.Wish i'd kept the old pads to see what make they were

mine will stoppie with standard calipers

[steve speed]

Surely you'd gain feel but at the expense of gaining more lever movement?

So a 15 mm from a FJR1300 might be a good compromise then

Didn't realise there were a million TRXs worldwide..................

the last time i counted there was 1 million and three
and no you loose feel with a smaller one and gain feel with a big one

[Mincehead]

I`m running a nissin radial caliper(16mm)with braided lines,stock calipers and pazzo span adjustable levers and wavy discs.2 fingers are all I ever need on the lever unless it`s a twitching sphincter moment.
I will be upgrading to either a pair of blue spots I already have or might use my set of six pots when I get round to doing my YZF 750 front end conversion.

[dandywarhol]

Surely you'd gain feel but at the expense of gaining more lever movement?

So a 15 mm from a FJR1300 might be a good compromise then

Didn't realise there were a million TRXs worldwide..................

the last time i counted there was 1 million and three
and no you loose feel with a smaller one and gain feel with a big one

Don't agree SS - the smaller m/cylinder bore gives more leverage so you then have a bigger scale to use for "feel" A larger bore cylinder gives the "wooden" feel people talk about, because you've reduced the scale.

I fitted bluespots to a TDM a while back with the standard m/c and braided lines. I didn't like it because of the lack of feel - the brake operation was ok. I then fitted a 14mm cylinder and found the leverage almost too much - and the travel too long so I went back to a standard 5/8 (15.8mm) cylinder and original rubber hoses - problem solved - both "feel" and a good brake

[arrivisto]

I replaced the standard calipers with blue-spots and I changed to Goodrich braided cables at the same time. Like most people, I found the braking significantly improved, but the feel very wooden. But I'm not going to mess with changing the master cylinders; instead I'll keep the blue spots and put the old rubber hoses back on.

(My old MZ Skorpion had braided cables and had the best front brake I've ever known; so there's nothing wrong with braided cables as such. Rather, it's a matter of getting all the component parts to work together).

[FRANKCLOCK]

I purchased my bike a short while ago & having just got it back on the road I went for a ride & the brake lever felt very wooden, mine is fitted with blue spot calipers, so I purchased a R1 master cyl off ebay & fitted it using my own brake lever, on riding it around home I noticed the brakes were beginning to bind, after stopping for a while all seemed good again I then rode it again & the same thing happened, I went to my mates bike shop in frustration & asked him if he had any clues, he felt the lever then removed it & matched it up with a R1 lever & they are bloody different!! my original one was pushing the cylinder piston in & not allowing it to come out far enough to let the fluid return through the cylinder, I fitted the new lever & its fixed, I could have ground the original lever down but it needs to have the correct cam profile to make it work properly & after all the issues it was easier to buy a complete lever, now I have a TRX master cyl & lever spare or for sale !!!! so be carefull when fitting these up