i changed my dog bones today

[Banger]

[Kayla]

Got something to add?

[Beau]

Many people make these mods believing it will adjust the weight bias of the bike more towards the front (it doesn't).

Are you certain? By dropping the front 20mm and raising the rear 20mm, aren't you essentially rotating the bike about a point and moving the centre of gravity (even if just by a fraction)? Also factor in the effect that riding position will have, if the bike's canted forward it'll put more weight on the riders wrists (and so more weight over the front wheel?). I'm not trying to be argumentative, this is just what I suppose from what my bike feels like now- it's loads better than it was and feels a lot more 'front endy'. I suppose just by junking the standard silencers you shift the weight bias forward anyway.

Raising the rear end will not change the weight bias at all.... it just feels a bit like it does, hence why people often say that is what they have achieved. Race teams who raise the rear ride height on bikes usually do it to increase cornering clearance and therefore the maximum lean angle... sometimes the resultant steering geometry changes are a benefit, sometimes they are not... it becomes a trade off.

And you're right... dumping the standard heavy cans for some lightweight jobbies will do a million times more for the weight distribution than raising the rear end by 20mm ever will.

Also worth remembering that many average riders will put too much weight on their wrists in normal riding... this reduces the amount of control you have over the bike, so raising the rear end will only exacerbate the problem. As a day to day all round proposition I reckon the standard riding position is pretty much perfect, well for me anyway, but then I'm 6ft and 100kg and I like doing the odd 1000km day here and there, so I don't want it too racy. It will still cope with a track day in standard trim so I feel no need to change it just yet.

More important to all of this is to have the bike sprung correctly for your weight. Mines running standard springs and to be honest it's pretty awful. I really need to put in much stifer springs in the front (probably up to about 1kg spring rate - or double the weight of standard springs) and the rear needs to be stiffer as well. If the spring rates are not right then you end up using your damping controls to stiffen things up, which is just defeating the purpose of having damping adjustment in the first place.

Having the right springs to suit your weight will do more for the handling than any changes in ride height... front or rear.

[Beau]

Your point? I assume you do have one?

[Trixz]

@ TS

Stunning bike, but how much did you lower the front (top of the springs till the top yoke, if I say it correct )

Thanks
Gerben

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

yes makes sense about the geometry...i can see that (never got to post my comment before heading off for a weeks holiday and seizing the waterpump,demolishing a radiator and doing a head gasket on the way home in the car and leaving it for the wreckers to pick up 300km's from home.. )... and also would like to question about weight shifted to the handle bars if lifting the rear end??

[DAYS]

@ TS

Stunning bike, but how much did you lower the front (top of the springs till the top yoke, if I say it correct )

Thanks
Gerben

there is 25mm off fork leg showing above the clipon and this is not including the frok cap with the fork cap its around the 28/30mm

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

So hows your summary on the shorter dogbones with the rear end lifted Days??? How did you find the rear end feel and as mentioned damp/adjustment?? And the feel upon(yourself) the wrists as such?? and of course not to mention the handling characteristics of the bike....Did you find that little extra peg height you where chasing??? Why your at it mate got next weeks winning lotto numbers for me too

[DAYS]

So hows your summary on the shorter dogbones with the rear end lifted Days??? How did you find the rear end feel and as mentioned damp/adjustment?? And the feel upon(yourself) the wrists as such?? and of course not to mention the handling characteristics of the bike....Did you find that little extra peg height you where chasing??? Why your at it mate got next weeks winning lotto numbers for me too

mate i love it. Wrists no probs at all a bit more weight on them but i like that feeling in a bike. Ride is great handles how i like it to. I only took it for a shrot run in the hills near my place 6klm off bends. The last time i did them it had stock gearing and ride hight. I found it alot better in and out off bends and streering is a lot faster. Peg hight is good but still taping toe sliders on the deck.

mate lotto numbers pm me and offer $$$$ and iff i agree i send you my bank details

[Trixz]

there is 25mm off fork leg showing above the clipon and this is not including the frok cap with the fork cap its around the 28/30mm

Aha, I've got mine on about 23mm fork leg showing. Still waiting for a track day to lower it more because of the 120/70 front tyre

Greetz
Gerben

[trxster]

Good looking bike, and some interesting reading in this topic . I run the short bones on mine, got it all sorted suspension wise, and love handling of it, 15ks of mountain road each way too and from work. Do keep an eye on the rubber chain runner that sits over the front of the swing arm, this is now prone to wear more quickly, cheaper to replace it when required, than to let it go to far, and cut a groove in the s/arm pivot bush, this can get Fugly.

[DAYS]

Good looking bike, and some interesting reading in this topic . I run the short bones on mine, got it all sorted suspension wise, and love handling of it, 15ks of mountain road each way too and from work. Do keep an eye on the rubber chain runner that sits over the front of the swing arm, this is now prone to wear more quickly, cheaper to replace it when required, than to let it go to far, and cut a groove in the s/arm pivot bush, this can get Fugly.

will do thanks for the tip. You must love the ride to work 15klm hills each way