exhaust downpipes seized on!!!

[Killerwhale]

haggisbash ...i tried running the engine with nuts off and i didnt work.i tried everything i could think of and the last resort was to cut them off.

Wonder what will happen if run warm and then freeze the downpipes

[Trixz]

haggisbash ...i tried running the engine with nuts off and i didnt work.i tried everything i could think of and the last resort was to cut them off.

Wonder what will happen if run warm and then freeze the downpipes

I want a full story of those molecules when you do it

Greetz
Gerben

Ps. are you serious about your question.....?

[Steve]

Good luck with getting them off Gave up with mine a couple of months ago!

Tried assorted large screwdrivers, cold chisels, hammers ranging from small tappy things to big bash the hell out of it without breaking it if you can size hammers - few bist of ally chipped off/flattened and thats about it
ran the bike for about a fortnight with no nuts on - still no movement
had a word with a cage mechanic mate - "try this freeing oil" says he its fantastic - did fekk all!
sat revving engine for a few mins and then drench downpipes with cold water still bugger all movement not even a tiny bit
so funk it moved on to other jobs and put up with grotty downpipes - until next time

as an addition didnt someone here have a bash at making some split collars for said pesky pipes?
or is cutting them just enough to poke/wire brush the crap out and then just shove a washer over before the nut goes back on
just about enough to hold em?

[haggisbash]

Mexican speed wrench (gas torch)works wonders

[brockzila]

i split my collars to get them back on to my new head. i had to cut them off the old head.
then cut slots down the sides about 8mm, measured on my eyecrometer, so i could free up half of the build up an there then bash the remainder of the bits out with a hammer.drilled out the holes one size bigger, cleaned it up a bit with a file and bolted them back on. now i just have washers under the nuts and lots of copper in there as well.
there is so much meat on them just cutting a slot in each end wount effect the way they perform.

[steve speed]

i suppose you could counter bore them from the back ,,would be tricky to do though

[G Beale]

I am so glad I found this thread. Was beginning to think I was the most unlucky TRX owner in existance.
Got a lovely new (2nd hand) full system to go on my bike over the winter but do you think I could get the feckin header wotsits off ? Could I f**k ! I spent 2 nights with WD40, blow lamp, crow bars, various hammers etc. Managed to snap about 3mm off the end of one stud, bent another, I thought I might crack the water jacket I levered so hard against the front of the engine with my biggest bar !
Any hooo, I didn't come on here to moan ! I'm told by the chap i bought this exhaust system off that it was held on to his race bike using Kawasaki style "split" collets but he couldn't remember the exact model. Found a few sets on good old ebay so just got the sellers to measure the hole centres for me and I'm now waiting on a set from a 1993 VN750 ? Hole centres are 65mm (I hope). These Kwak ones have 2 holes in each half with a cut out on the ends so one half goes over both studs then the other half goes the other way around over the same 2 studs and the cut outs mate up to form a complete ring around the header. You're doing well if you followed that but I will post pictures when they arrive as I'm dying to fit this exhaust & make my neighbours Christmas.

[ekoja]

I seem to recall someone where that vinegar does the trick, I assume you soak them in it,
Im also recall some one mentioned beer, which apparently you drink. Cant see any harm in that.

[Kayla]

I seem to recall someone where that vinegar does the trick, I assume you soak them in it,
Im also recall some one mentioned beer, which apparently you drink. Cant see any harm in that.

I'd thought that maybe running the bike up to temperature then spraying the headers with the freeze spray plumbers use might have an effect.

[G Beale]

I heard that vinegar is very good at removing rust too.
Be good if you could get the headers hot so they expand & freeze the studs I thought but then I also thought it would be a good idea to hold an exhaust end cap in one hand & gring some excess ally weld odd with the other.

[HolerTogni]

Hi G Beale!

I heard that vinegar is very good at removing rust too.
...

I don't think that vinegar can remove rust ... but what vinegar is able to is descaling what's left after numerous rain rides - or maybe after some washing with a subsequent "drying ride"

Fixed greetings from Munich!

[Tarwetijger]

Good and bad news. The good news is that I found Akra 2-in-1 headers, the second last one from the factory! Picked them up yesterday.
The bad news is that I really have to get the original headers of the bike. I have tried it before and did not succeed.
I'm afraid I have to use an angle grinder. But where do I cut it? To me there are 4 options, see pic below. What would you do?
Of course the headers have to remain useable.

[Mincehead]

Good and bad news. The good news is that I found Akra 2-in-1 headers, the second last one from the factory! Picked them up yesterday.
The bad news is that I really have to get the original headers of the bike. I have tried it before and did not succeed.
I'm afraid I have to use an angle grinder. But where do I cut it? To me there are 4 options, see pic below. What would you do?
Of course the headers have to remain useable.

I`m going to be fitting my Over headers one day soon(having titanium cans made up by the guy who creates the carbon component parts for most of the British race can manufacturers)so just waiting for them to be complete.
My exhaust nuts are so corroded I don`t even have the embroached hexagon left inside them for a key!
The rust has savaged them,they`ve not been moved since 1996.
I`m going to flame cut the nuts off(Oxy-Acetylene)above the flanges and fit four new studs with my own domed head,fully enclosed BRASS nuts made from 9/16(approx 14mm)brass hex bar.
Now it is my opinion that ALL exhaust nuts irrespective of vehicle should always be brass,it deforms enough to be able to create a very good hold against the flange and it`s ALWAYS soft enough to undo,plus it`ll never rust on.
Now Tarwetijger:

IF I was resorting to an angle grinder,I would try first cutting off the studs flush with the flanges,there will always be enough exposed stud to replace them still `proud` of the head.
Alternatively cut away a portion of the flange inboard of the stud through the flange so as to be able to release the front pipes.You will then be left with a thin half circle slice of flange hanging from each exhaust stud.
Using a blow torch or Oxy-acetylene you will then be able to heat the nuts to `cherry red` and use a stilsons wrench or similar to `crack` them on the studs thread.
By the way G Beale,those split/two part flanges you talk of.
Yes Kawasaki split/two part flanges will definately work ,I intend to try some ZZR1100 ones if I can get them off my pal who builds ZZR drag bikes,he seems to have plenty of them kicking around.More guinness might do the trick.
Alternatively Ebay UK is also a good hunting ground for them,or if you prefer,just buy new ones!
They`re not cheap though,being forgings.

[Tarwetijger]

IF I was resorting to an angle grinder,I would try first cutting off the studs flush with the flanges,there will always be enough exposed stud to replace them still `proud` of the head.

So, you mean option 1, right?

Alternatively cut away a portion of the flange inboard of the stud through the flange so as to be able to release the front pipes.You will then be left with a thin half circle slice of flange hanging from each exhaust stud.

I'm not sure if I understand what you mean. I haven't learned words like flange and studs in highschool class!

Using a blow torch or Oxy-acetylene 8<

I only have an angle grinder!

[Mincehead]

Ok,let me try to help you out.

NO not option one,it`ll leave too short a piece of stud(threaded metal rod,you may refer to it as bolt)protruding from the cylinder head.
You`ll not be able to get a good enough grip on the very short piece of stud that`s left.
SO........................................
Cut the stud(bolt)off including the seized nut from the side of the two holed plate(flange)that is the pipe/end can side.
Not the side that faces the head.
You`ll then be left with a long enough piece of stud(bolt)to allow you to use a barrel type stud extractor to remove it from the head and replace it with new.

Is that easier?