Conked out this arvo

[Mincehead]

Now you mention those forks, YES Ceriani`s for sure and Moto Martin cast wheels eh?
Could be I`ll do some homework and get back to you, they look like Campbells to me but I`ve often been known to be wrong.
Combat `spec` is pretty hot, better BHP than an 850 anyway.
Here`s some Campbells on a rather nice Seeley Honda:

Seeley Honda.jpg

Well the wheels you have are very likely Martins, they are not Campbells as I thought.
Oh and John Campbell, he`s still going strong, anyone remember his Geometrics range of exhausts with the cast alloy and finned collection boxes?:

http://www.campbellcustom.co.uk/index.htm

[davamb]

Well thanks for that Mincehad, I decided to contact John Campbell to see if he could shed some light on the matter and received this response:

Hi Dave,
The forks are Ceriani and the wheels are Morris Magnesium of the USA. One of my competitors during that era. They were also used on the racing MV's
Regards
John Campbell

So maybe they're a bit more valuable than I originally thought!

[Mincehead]

Excellent.
That`s a result then Dave.
Do you remember those Campbell geometrics exhausts? I had a two into one system on a Honda twin, alloy( if I remember correctly) finned collector box and a tuneable outlet, you just turned a dome nut to open or close four vanes in the megaphone.
If you`re talking to John again you should ask him if he`s got any pictures of them.
Regards,
Geoff.

[davamb]

Well, thought I'd seen it all, but dunno the Campbell Geometrics Geoff. Must look into it further. Bessie's up for sale, so I'd better update the ad with the wheel and fork details. Might make it a bit more interesting to a prospective buyer.

Anywho. Finally got time to give the TRX a bit of attention today. Changed the emulsion tubes for the new Factory Pro units I had kicking around. What a right pain in the arse that was. Still got to find where about 2,347 tubes belong back on the carbs and tank. Bit of rust sediment in the float bowls. Think I need to treat the tank with some Tank Kreeme - did it to the Pantah and still very happy with the results 5+ years on. Then decided to check the plugs and the sealing. Oh I see, you have to take the radiator off to change the sparkplugs??? You're kidding surely? Nope, only way to get the RH plug out. In the process noticed the LH plug seal was not pushed home and a bit of water condensate in the plug 'ole. (It was the LH pot that was popping and farting.) Plug wasn't fouled though. Cleaned both plugs and made sure they were properly sealed. Cleaned the radiator, straightened all the bent vanes and gave it a lick of paint. Will see if I can get some grill stuff from the hardware shop tomorrow and make a protector thingy for it. Hope to get her all back together tomorrow. (Public holiday here in Aus.) Let ya know how I go.

[davamb]

All back together but still not idling great. I'll take a run around the block and see if she clears up. Don't hold out much hope though.

[davamb]

Nope. No idea now.

[davamb]

Pulled the carbs down again this arvo. There was some water sitting in the little cavity above the float valve, but buggered if I can find anything else. All the jets were clear and there was no water in the bowls. Running much better, but still the odd surge, occasional idle dip and sometimes a bang on the over-run. That last symptom can't be carburettion surely - must be ignition? An uncombusted lung-full is being burned in the pipe yeah?

[DOBBO]

Hello devamb, electrical and fuel problems often give the same symptoms I've been sucked in before chasing fuel problems when it was acually electrical. My bike used to develop a misfire on the RH pot (RH plug sooted up) cleaned plug and it ran fine until plug fouled again. So I thought the fuel pump diaphram was holed letting fuel into RH cylinder making it run rich. Changed fuel pump problem went away for 9 months but suddenly problem came back worse than ever. Checked for spark and both sides were weak. Got the ohm meter out and tested HT coils, plug caps and pick up coil. Found the pick up coil faulty, replaced it and now it runs perfectly again. Electrical problems are often intermitant until the faulty part finally breaks down. If the bike is playing up now get a spare sparkplug earth it out and check condition of spark and go from there. The answer to Wombat's question HT coils are $183 each, pick up coils come with stator at $550 each and I wasted $120 on a fuel pump. Good luck with it mate DOBBO.

[davamb]

Thanks Dobbo, much appreciated. Went for another test ride on the freeway down to work and it started to cough and fart. Even though I had pretty much a full tank, in desperation I switched it over to reserve and it started to run properly. At work I grabbed some isopropyl alcohol and dumped in 100ml but wasn't game to switch back to main on the way home. I will now empty the tank and give it a bit of a clean out and check out the fuel pump/switch thingy at the same time. Guess I better then give the carbs another clean too!

[muck_mahone]

Any joy yet Davamb? sounds exactly like my bike. I've done all the above, and checked the electrics as best as I could, primary and secondary wiring on the coils, stator resistance and output, spark plug cap resistance, new plugs, airfilter, drained carbs and tank. My throttle position sensor was well out, but despite adjusting it back to where it should be, thats made no difference either. That leaves the CDI as the main suspect I suppose. And despite not being started all week she had the audacity to start with the first stab on the button this morning, and run smoothly. Time for a spin, hopefully whatevers wrong will actually break so I can find it.

[M.V.]

Checked all the vacuum cables?

Fuel tap & pump both require vacuum...