"Abandoned in North London"-The Rebuild Thread

[NWS870R]

Bottle of malt says its the left big end shells - and if it keeps clak claking you'll wreck the crank and conrod ................

Agreed - don't keep running it up till you've stripped & inspected the crank & shells,etc or you'll probably start shedding teeth from the cam sprocket & a new crank is just under £1000 from Yamaha! If you need a replacement crank second hand you'll be searching for a while to find a good 'un as well (someone on here might have one tho?)

Once you've checked it smear with butter & some fresh Rosemary & jobs a good 'un! (sorry - can't stop myself )

[ekoja]

Opened the carbs today and they look brand new inside. Cant say the same about the outside though.

Now..... with these 2 pictures of the carbs can we see in these photos where the emulsion tubes are? It is a dumb question I know, but I truly do not know and as I need to change mine.............
Thanks, and no curry type answers please.

In this photo, they are under the brass bolt you can see in the middle of the carbs, the floats make a sideways "L" shape, it's above & to the left.

You undo the brass bolt (8mm I think from memory) & lift the emulsion tubes out from the top.

Thanks...... Appreciate that.
Cheers.

[scarfacehugo]

I thought to myself I would start by taking the sump out and checking the con rods from the bottom. If I dont find anything there, I'll take the top cover out and check everything.
To get to the sump I need to get the exhaust pipes out of the way and that's what I did for almost 3 hours after work. Four f"#&%g bolts that would not move no matter what I did to them. Acetilene gas, tig , chisel, hammer, everything. I finally managed to cut the studs right where they come out of the engine, and that's going to be a job to take them out.






The left one I managed to cut with the air grinder, but the right one....mini hacksaw. Took me hours. The studs are seized in the clamps.

[trixynut]

Theres been mucho discussion on here in the past about the 'welding' of the collars to the studs over time: common problem and no real solution other than what you have tried and done

[Mincehead]

Yes, I`ve got the `joys` of releasing the alloy collars from steel studs to come.I plan to grind away the alloy collars as I wont be reusing them anyway. I`ll be fitting some Over pipework so won`t need the stock pipework/headers to go back on.
Like you I tried heat but all to no avail.
You could use a concentrated acid solution I suppose but then there`s issues with it attacking areas you didn`t want it attacking!
Angle grinder on the alloy shouldn`t take too long I reckon, we`ll see when I tackle them.
You`ve got the `nice` job of removing the stud remnants from the block to come now, I recommend grinding the remnants as flat as you can get them before attempting to centre punch them CENTRALLY prior to drilling.
You need to drill as carefully as you can and open them up to accept the largest easyout you can use, if you`re very careful you can get almost down to the top of the thread pitch which on the studs is 1.25mm (8mm studs).
A 6.5 mm drill would be about right, that way you`ll generate the maximum torque on the easyout when you come to use it.
This shows an easyout and how they work:

pipe_extractor.jpg

[scarfacehugo]

You`ve got the `nice` job of removing the stud remnants from the block to come now, I recommend grinding the remnants as flat as you can get them before attempting to centre punch them CENTRALLY prior to drilling.
You need to drill as carefully as you can and open them up to accept the largest easyout you can use, if you`re very careful you can get almost down to the top of the thread pitch which on the studs is 1.25mm (8mm studs).
A 6.5 mm drill would be about right, that way you`ll generate the maximum torque on the easyout when you come to use it.
This shows an easyout and how they work:

Cheers for all that detailed info and the pic as well.
Before I go the "extractor way" I will try to TIG weld a piece of metal to the top of the studs and then spin it. This is the process I usually use to release stuborn bolts or studs. The heat expands the aluminium, breaks some of the oxid and they usually come out. If this doenst work, I'll go for the extractors.
Anyway, I am still more concerned about the con-rods than the studs. Took the oil filter out today and no signs of swarf. That's always a good thing.

[Mincehead]

Of course TIGging a piece of bar or a smaller diameter bolt to the remnants of the studs should work too, didn`t realise you had the TIG resource open to you.

[dandywarhol]

Rarely see swarf but you do see battered thin shells like these on the right



Heres a thread on a crank overhaul on a mk1 TDM injun

http://www.carpe-tdm.net/ipb/index.php? ... &hl=shells

[scarfacehugo]

Rarely see swarf but you do see battered thin shells like these on the right



Heres a thread on a crank overhaul on a mk1 TDM injun

http://www.carpe-tdm.net/ipb/index.php? ... &hl=shells

Thanks Dandy! If it proves that the noise does come from the con-rods I'll be doing the same.

Does anyone have any info on the company that's offering crank reconditioning and shells for these on ebay?

I'm trying to $ee where this is going...

[M.V.]

Rarely see swarf but you do see battered thin shells like these on the right

Really? Mine had heaps...

[scarfacehugo]

...and a bottle of the very best malt goes to Mr. Warhol!!

I took the sump out and also the cradle with the strainer thingy. Managed to reach the left con-rod with a finger and it does move back and forward. What next? I guess everything has to come out.
Oh well... this is where money starts going out.




I would like to thank you all that have been pointing me in the right direction and I hope you're all enjoying my suffering

[Mincehead]

Who is the company on Ebay? I cannot view Ebay from here so cannot look myself.

[scarfacehugo]

Who is the company on Ebay? I cannot view Ebay from here so cannot look myself.

Chris Applebee Engineering in Essex. Crankshaft specialists. £158 to regrind the crank and supply new oversized shells

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Yamaha-TDM-850-TR ... 19c0e5a075

[dandywarhol]

I've heard both good and bad about Applebee - he's been doing it for a long time but folks on Carpe (in the link I gave you) have had bad dealings.

These cranks shells are colour coded and have to be checked using Plastigauge to get to within the correct tolerances - otherwise you'll have more suffering...........................

PS - Highland Park is a favourite at the moment

[NWS870R]

Applebee were always very good - i'm going back a few (alot of) years tho, don't know what they're like nowadays?