spluttery pop pop

[davamb]

Bit over 1600k in 3 days. Never spluttered once. No rain though.

[pwmotorsports]

mine is going into the workshop now ive some time to look at it again deffo think its gotta be aearth related in my case tbh so ognna get into that wireing and find it one way or another.....

think i recall seeing somwhere there is a earth near where the fuel pump mounts ?

the coil mounts have gone on one side so i wired up some earths with a nut and bolt to the frame for it and attached the coil to the rail with cable ties so think maybe my bothched coil mounthing method needs work any suggestions on how to better mount it without welding some new tabs on to the frame ?

might just be possible that my problem was from the water in the starter solinoid and ive made the other problems since i started fiddlign about with it all i guess ?

might go see if i can by some earth straps from ebay and use the direct to frame for the coil instead of simple wire to frame

[pwmotorsports]

ok we have fuel we have spark and we have compression but we are only fireing on one cyl as the front pipes only one is getting hot well one is getting luke warm and the other is getting proper hot so im stumped..................

where to from here ?

not coils not plugs not leads to plugs carbs are tip top if i clean them any more they may fall apart from the amount of cleaning theyve had.......

is it possible to when removing the carbs and the tank put the pipes back together in the wrong way to make this happen ? is it possible to have spark compression and fuel and still not run ?

the sledge hammer is looking a more appealing option than trying to work it out at this point so ive left it for now but i have to figure it out its driving me nuts

[dandywarhol]

ok we have fuel we have spark and we have compression but we are only fireing on one cyl as the front pipes only one is getting hot well one is getting luke warm and the other is getting proper hot so im stumped..................

where to from here ?

not coils not plugs not leads to plugs carbs are tip top if i clean them any more they may fall apart from the amount of cleaning theyve had.......

is it possible to when removing the carbs and the tank put the pipes back together in the wrong way to make this happen ? is it possible to have spark compression and fuel and still not run ?

the sledge hammer is looking a more appealing option than trying to work it out at this point so ive left it for now but i have to figure it out its driving me nuts

How did you sort out the high tension shock you were getting from the plug lead?

[pwmotorsports]

after making sure all the leads were securely connected and that the earths were good it was no longer there

[hjp1968]

Just an odd thought maybe the sparkplugs are firing in the outside world but in the cylinderhead with the compression the spark isn't strong enough. Have you swapped over all the High Tension side to see if the problem moves. Sorry if you have tried all this

[pwmotorsports]

the plan for tommorow if i loose the desire to beat it with a hammer is to swop the coils over to see if it changes cylinder or not and look for a wire under the airbox i read about on another site that might be a possible problem and maybe get some new HT leads from an autoparts place and maybe give them a go

[dandywarhol]

I'm convinced your problems are HT - as hjp says, under compression and rich mixture there might not be enough voltage to spark the plug properly - I have a set of TDM coils/leads somewhere in my garage - if you give me the measurements of your coil to plug cap I'll see if they compare

[pwmotorsports]

Im going to go out tommorow and get some HT cable from an autoparts palce its not exspensive and I only really need a little and if i go early i can get it on and done before its to late to get it tried tommorow.........

Thanks for the offer of the leads if it comes to it I will gladly take you up on your kind offer but if i can try and resolve it tommorow for a short trip and a tenner then ill give that a go first thanks

[dandywarhol]

I don't know how you plan to connect the new HT lead to the existing coils but the HT sparkplug caps have a built in resistance to stop radio/tv interference. This means the HT lead is copper centred. Make sure you replace like with like as you can get carbon centred leads with a built in resistance - if you use this combined with resistor plugcaps then you're going to get misfires all over again!

Connectors are available to join up to the stub end at the coil when you cut the original off and the new lead, like this:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ignition-Lead-con ... _716wt_905

Make sure these have no built in resistance.................................

There should be over 10,000 ohms resistance along the length of the lead to the point where the plug makes contact.

[pwmotorsports]

ok thanks for info but not sure why i would cut the end off ? my coils and leads have a simple standerd screw onto arrangement at the coil end and again at the plug end so surely i just need a new length of non resistance lead ? over on carpe TDM they seem to recomend carbon core ones over copper ?

[Mincehead]

Stick to copper core and leave it a few inches longer than you need it to enable you to cut back any if required in the future for a good, clean, connection.
So your original coils have a removable HT lead eh?
I don`t think they can be standard coils as I think all Yamaha originals have HT leads that are sealed into the coils, I`m sure mine are.
As Dandywarhol so rightly states you really don`t want resistor type (NGK-R) plug caps and silicon / internal resistance HT leads together, it creates too much load on the coils.
I would advise sealing the copper HT lead into the coil with some simple, cheap, clear silicon, (go to an aquarium store or pet shop for a small tube), just to ensure no water can get in when they are in use. You can also do the same at the plug cap too as a belt and braces approach.

[dandywarhol]

Beat me to it mince - someone's had problems on the spark front in a previous life with this bike methinks

Don't know where the Carpe info came from - but like all things interwebby, you have to sift through the shite to get the real answers..........if you fit carbon leads then you MUST fit non resistor plugcaps, believe me - this was something I learned badck in old mk1 golf GTI days when folks fecked about with leads and ended up with bigger problems than the started out with! As mincey says, use some sillycunt sealer around the connections.

If yours aren't the original coils, I wonder if they're up to the job?????............ Maybe they're off a Morris Minor or something......................

[pwmotorsports]

bikes a Japanese import the coils are as are on other bikes ive seen ive had TDM in the past aswell and when i simply look on ebay for trx coils the pictures look like what ive got......

Fact is i can simply unscrew the leads on mine very easily and the ones i bought off ebay were exactly the same arrangement if this isnt the way its meant to be perhaps someone could show me some sort of a picture as to how it is meant to be ? the coils that were on the bike are ones that have run the bike for the 10 years ive owned it with no problems untill recently and the same coils that ran the bike for the 4 years before that my mate owned the bike....

now im really confussed

here is typical ebay picture and what i bought to replace the same thing

[dandywarhol]

Fair 'nuf - I suppose the original coil lead has to be attached to the coils somehow - I just seem to remember they were sealed into the coil - I'd go for your original idea of using new copper centred lead and new or trusted plugcaps - old caps can "leak" down in the head tunnel over time. When testing coils, best to earth the pluglead to the frame to emulate a spark plug to avoid damaging the coil/CDI unit