A better engine stand.

[M.V.]

"Better than what, MV?" I hear you ask. Well, no engine stand, which is what I had last time I took the engine out.

Actualy, that's not technically correct, I did have 2 tree stumps & an assortment of 4x2, but I'd hardly call that an engine stand...

Anyway, I need to do rings, valve guides & some otther assorted bits & pieces, inspired by our very own davamb & his distinct lack of oil burning! (Hopefully that's still the case...?)

The aim was to have the engine stand slot in while the bike was still together & hold the engine in situ while I unbolt & remove the rolling chassis.

Then, when the work's done, the engine is in the correct position to just slot then chassis back on top & bolt back together. This will be much better than my previous method, trust me.

So: 6 x metres of 50mm x 50mm x 1.6mm square tubing, a few grinding discs, some gasless mig wire, a few beers & one glass on nice red I usurped from the wife later & voila:

05072011177.jpg

The threaded rod attaches to the empty holes in the front of the engine

05072011179.jpg

On the rear stand, bolt her up, remove the rear stand & she's upright. 285mm to the centre of the hole to the ground (your height might vary depending upon preload, so if you're gunna build one, measure your bike), I've used 12mm threaded rod to hold the engine, the holes in the engine are around 13.5mm. Across the engine is 280mm, the front to rear lengths are 600mm, but you could make them whatever you wanted I guess.

05072011184.jpg

I still need to add one more upright to support the rear of the engine, it'll need to "bolt in" while the bike is on the rear stand & will mate up the where the exhaust bolt is in the pic (you can almost see it under a thick layer of dust,oil & roadgrime ). It'll probably be some square section tubing that a length of 50mm will slot into...

So there you go, I'm not the worlds greatest welder, but I think it'll hold up, a quick test didn't make it fall apart so...

[davamb]

Looks good MV, will make it a hell of a lot easier!

Anyway, I need to do rings, valve guides & some other assorted bits & pieces, inspired by our very own davamb & his distinct lack of oil burning! (Hopefully that's still the case...?)

Soon as you get the head off have a look at the bores. If there's still hone marks, you'll know. Gimme a yell if ya need any assistance or a second opinion.

[M.V.]

Looks good MV, will make it a hell of a lot easier!...Soon as you get the head off have a look at the bores. If there's still hone marks, you'll know. Gimme a yell if ya need any assistance or a second opinion.

Cheers mate, appreciate it. I've got two engines to strip down, I'll do some measurements & see which bore, pistons etc are in better nic (I suspect the old engine) & probably use those parts.

(If there's still hone marks the rings are stuffed yeah?)

[cal]

Nice one M.V.
I was thiking of making a similar thing as mine is in desperate need of a rebuild, powdercoat frame overhaul on the engine so the stand looks perfect, and light enough to move it to a bench still attached to the engine.

The exhausts will obviously have to come off at some point also, so prob best to remove them first and utilise the mounting point for them just behind the starter to make a rear support an upright square section with a beefy (6mm?) tab on the top with a hole in it for the bolt.
This of course would require more welding etc, and thus would require more beer/ red wine

I can see the mig coming out to play soon

[trixynut]

Nice simple solution mate. I'd maybe locate the rear vertical strut somewhere other than the exhaust bolt so you can get the pipes off ok too.

Mine is simpler though: length of 12mm steel rod and two axle stands

[M.V.]

Cheers guys!

Yeah, simple is good, I like simple.

I'm not entirely sure how I'm going to do the rear strut, as is you could leave the header pipes on without any hassle, but I'll take them off & repaint them.

I figure if I remove the pipes & then fit the rear strut (which will be removable/bolt in) that'll be the easiest solution. Could also have different length struts if you want to hold the bores vertical or similar.

[davamb]

If there's still hone marks the rings are stuffed yeah?

Almost certainly. And take the headers off, it's not that much work and makes it a hell of a lot easier in the long run IMHO.

[M.V.]

Cheers for the info, much appreciated.