Another crank gone!!

[zednine]

Different oil tank arrangement on the 3vd engine as well ........ more work

http://www.trx850.de/phpBB3/viewtopic.p ... 13#p138213

Found this on Tdm Carpe

"it is possible but it is hell'ava work to do!

engine fits on frame easily, u only need to make some space for the Mk2 oil tank.
problem is electrical!
u'll need new coil and ecu since Mk2 have different ignition stage

main reason is in crankshaft because Mk1 has 180 degrees between pistons and Mk2 270 degrees

any way it is possible but be ready to spend some time on it! "

[dixonj]

So when Scotsy fitted a trx motor in his tdm did he have to change coils ?. Think this is very interesting and needs much more research. .

[Killerwhale]

So when Scotsy fitted a trx motor in his tdm did he have to change coils ?. Think this is very interesting and needs much more research. .

Saw he put it up on ebay somewhat more expensive as well:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/TRX-850-Kurbelwe ... 27d20d9a1e

[zednine]

So when Scotsy fitted a trx motor in his tdm did he have to change coils ?. Think this is very interesting and needs much more research. .

there are 2 Tdms 4TX and 3VD ( one is 360 degree and one is the same as a Trx at 270 degrees) Scotsys bike ( a later TDM or MK2 as they are known ) had the same basic engine set up as a Trx so no need to change much ...... Early TDMs with the 360 degree engine dont seem to have any reliablity issues for some reason
The engines on Ebay are the easier to find MK1 engines

[misterdimwiddy]

Just measured tip clearance on both my oil pumps after crank failure.

Yamaha spec is 0 to 0.12mm; service limit is 0.17mm

Mine were 0.11 and 0.08mm with very very little scoring or visible wear to rotors in either pump.

Not so sure how to check side clearances.

Seems that pumps are good (engine mileage quite high but unknown) and not the primary cause of big end failure.


Yamaha spec for main bearing clearances are 0.02 to 0.038mm; service limit 0.1mm

Mine measured twice are;

0.1; 0.125; 0.1mm (worst case)

0.1; 0.05; 0.1mm (best case)

I have two sets of measures because the mains are more worn on one side than the other (strange; maybe because it's a 270deg crank??). One set is with the best side of the journal against the plastigauge and then with the worst worn (grooved) side.

All are on or beyond the limit and way beyond a healthy 0.02mm.

They remain my prime suspect for low pressure and eventual bearing failure, plus adding FCR's etc to a tired motor.

[misterdimwiddy]

Just took a flyer and bought a used complete motor for £200 hoping to get a decent or repairable crank.

Not all good news because LH big end shot. Seller told me it hardly made any noise when it was running but seeing the amount of play in the rod, he must be stone deaf. Felt worse than mine did.

The good news is that the mains feel very good with no detectable play at either end of the crank. Looks like a big end regrind with over size shells (£158), peened rods (£65) and a whole pile of pricey Yamaha seals and gaskets (£???) and I may be done. I've passed the point of no return now.

This means I have an almost complete motor in pieces if anyone is after engine parts. I'm keeping the generator cover but will probably do a for sale post soon once I know what's available. Don't want silly money either; just to get rid of some of the piles of engine parts I now have all around me and to recoup a bit of my cash.

When I finished this evening I was close to selling the lot and getting an RC8 but as my bruv said to me; patience grasshopper.

It'll be worth the agro when I'm back out there.

[zednine]

Can I have the oil filter housing thingy ?

Ta Chris

[misterdimwiddy]

Chris - pm sent

[misterdimwiddy]

Reground crank ready to go in. Just need to remember how it all goes back together without forgetting anything important.



With two motors in pieces I can hardly move cos of boxes of oily engine parts.



A week of evenings I reckon and it will be back in the frame.

Can't decide whether to whip another 20thou off the head before it goes back on. Bit of a faff taking the valves out and if I'm going that far may as well gas flow it?

Nahhhh. Just need to ride it for now. If it stays in one piece I will go for another head strip in the winter months.............talking of which it looks as though my wets will come in ahndy this 'summer'.

[zednine]

Ive been where you are and it scary but you are definitely on top of the build ........

[misterdimwiddy]

Back together and running at last.



No flickering oil light at v low revs which makes a change. Loads of oil flowing from gallery bolt on head which is encouraging. Took a while to come through cranking with no sparks as usual.

Sounds sweet, starts fine and have yet to find any leaks.

Looking at Brands Indy in June and will see how it goes. Hoping it stays together cos I don't fancy doing any engine work for a while.

Thanks to Nob for the blue fairing; looks neat with the tank to match.

[zednine]

Nice work and looking good ....... cant forsee any problems

[Yoozy]

Hope its good for you matey Sell it me,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,cheap

[dixonj]

Great to hear you are back up and running.

[misterdimwiddy]

Meant to add thanks for the donated rods Dixonj.

If you ever need engine parts I have got boxes of them.

Did use yours in the end as the small ends from my tired motor were well gone due to poor oil supply.

With new gudgeon pins there was no play that I could feel; went together beautifully.

Used cams and balance shafts from the duff motor that I bought cos they were better plus oil pumps measured up well within spec.

The motor does sound mechanically quiet compared to before.

I'll relax once it has had a track day with no upsets!!

If anyone needs a rotor puller for the crank, let me know and I can supply my home made one as long as you pay the p&p to send/receive. It's a 25mm thick steel plate with M16 hex bolt so weighs a bit.............but does the job.