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HansJ
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by HansJ » Thu Nov 04, 2010 5:57 pm
Have you noted where i am based?
I had a "below zero" ride 3 weeks ago. Engine stopped on the highway. No way to get it going again. After some 5 mins it started without any problems, probably because of the engine heat had had the time to do it's magic to something... And since i have FCRs, i don't have the coolant pipes attached. This was a first time for me, never had any problems before, but i guess going at a steady speed for an hour was what was needed.
So yes, i agree. But on really hot days, i have noticed some strange behaviour as well.
IQiokW
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Mincehead
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by Mincehead » Thu Nov 04, 2010 6:25 pm
Easy fix:
Get some copper automotive brake pipe and wrap/wind it twice around the inlet stubs, then utilise some silicon tube and re-fit the coolant loop to it.Hey presto no more icing.

LOUD PIPES SAVE LIVES
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dandywarhol
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by dandywarhol » Thu Nov 04, 2010 10:31 pm
HansJ wrote:Have you noted where i am based?
I had a "below zero" ride 3 weeks ago. Engine stopped on the highway. No way to get it going again. After some 5 mins it started without any problems, probably because of the engine heat had had the time to do it's magic to something... And since i have FCRs, i don't have the coolant pipes attached. This was a first time for me, never had any problems before, but i guess going at a steady speed for an hour was what was needed.
So yes, i agree. But on really hot days, i have noticed some strange behaviour as well.
Hehe - I'd noticed

You'd probably have seen iceball in the inlets. It doesn't need to be below freezing to iceball - vaporising requires taking away heat from somewhere so it takes heat away from the moisture in the damp air - next thing you've got ice lollies
I remember in the 80s a cop was killed on his Kawasaki in line 4 when it iceballed and stalled the engine - Kawasaki fitted carb heaters as a retro fit straight after the court case..........................
1996 TRX 850, blue, Ohlins 46HRCLS, Race Tech Gold Valves, 0.90 springs, Venom pipes, R6 brakes............
1974 Yamaha RD250A, Candy Blue
1998 Yamaha SZR660, blue of course
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, Blue and white
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hjp1968
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by hjp1968 » Thu Nov 11, 2010 11:22 pm
Silkolene do some Petrol enhancer that is meant to stop carb icing it was always suggested for ZXR750's
You could try that
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trixi
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by trixi » Sun Nov 14, 2010 5:32 am
Erratic tick over is often caused by air leaks in the induction system. It's unusual for these leaks to "come and go" with temperature. But here's a simple , quick , cheap , and pretty reliable way to check for air leaks around your carburetors. Buy a can of easy-start, ,startyabastard, type stuff. I don't know what you would call it in Spain .But it is an Either based aerosol that is used to help start worn engines .Start your engine and let it tick-over. Spray small amounts of the easy-start around the carburetor, pipework, and intake manifolds any air leak will cause the easy-start to be "sucked in" to the air-fuel mix entering the engine. This will change the idle of your engine. Generally making it speed up.If it makes no difference to the tick-over, then you can be pretty sure that you don't have an air leak. You can try this with your motor either hot or cold. It wont fix the problem , but it can help find the place where air is leaking in.
A WORD OF WARNING. Easy-start is very volatile(flammable , explosive) it can damage paintwork . Use it in small amounts. DON'T OPEN THE THROTTLE / REV THE MOTOR WHEN YOU ARE TESTING IT. There is a possibility that you may damage the motor . if you. 1/ spray a lot of easy-start into the air intake. 2/ rev the tits of your engine. I am not sure if this is the cause of your problem. But it is one way of eliminating air leaks as the the cause.
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trixi
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by trixi » Sun Nov 14, 2010 5:46 am
Carb' icing. I had a GPz600R, (one of the models Kawasaki issued a recall on) back when this was in the news. I lived in England at the time. I never had a problem with it. Even though i rode all through winter. Even in ice and snow. Those were the days!! I held the extremely unsympathetic view that if you couldn't work out how to dip the clutch in time to avoid a crash should your engine stall and lock your back wheel (for whatever reasons) Well you probably shouldn't be riding a bike in the first place. "Cos if the carb' icing didn't get you then something else surly would !! I never had my GPZ modified. I held the view that i would rather risk carb' icing than possibly lose some performance from having my air fuel mix artificially heated up and losing density. Looking back it seems to be a strange way to think. But I was young and the possibility of going 1/2 a mile an hour faster seemed to good to ignore !!!
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george
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by george » Mon Aug 13, 2012 10:24 pm
simple fix
new suppresor caps.